Full text of "The manual on barbering, hairdressing, manicuring, facial massage, electrolysis and chiropody as taught in the Moler system of colleges"

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THE MANUAL

BARBERING,

HAIRDRESSING, MANICUR

ING, FACIAL MASSAGE,

ELECTROLYSIS AND

CHIROPODY

AS TAUGHT IM

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MAHIWI retPftRK TMi AmEnriCi A/ID SJlDiS mt ffljAMIAU SifIT POST BUI) fo« .|«

JL| THE 1^

OF COLLEGES

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BY A. B. MOLER

PRICE $1.00

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LIBRARY of CONGRESS
One Copy deceived

JAN 27 1906

Cop^jri^nt tiitry

OUSS (Z ^^c. No,
' ^CCPY b!

A. B. MOIvKR

PREFACE.

IN the pages following- it has been my intention to
illustrate and present a set of rules that will at
all times be a guide, both while learning and after
completing the trades. I have tried to present a sys-
tem thorough and simple, illustrating in detail the
requirements for the real artist and the training
necessary to familiarize them with the technical
details of the profession

By reason of my eight years constant teaching and
my fifteen years of service in the work, I feel that
no one has had a better opportunity to practice and
study the work that I now lay before you.

I hope to make this book of more than ordinary
service, and by following its instructions closely,
combined with the advantages our colleges offer,
there is no chance for failures.

INDEX.

Page No.

Part 1. Physical and Mental Requirements . . . 9 — 10

Part 2. Selection and Care of Tools 11 — 23

Part 3. Honing- and Stropping . 24 — 29

Part 4. Shaving- 29—39

Part 5. Hair Cutting- 39—49

Part 6. Beard Trimming 5'^— 54

Part 7. Shampoo, Miscellaneous 55 — 69

Parts. Men's Facial Massag^e 70—112

BOOK IT.

Ivadies' Hairdressing- 7

Furniture and Arrang-ement of Establishments. 9 — 16

Selection and Care of Tools 16 — 21

Combing-, Dressing-, Shampooing, etc 21 — 42

Marcel Wave 42—40

Dyeing-, Bleaching-, Etc 46 — 58

Scalp Massag-e , 58 — 64

Formulas and Price List 64 — 67

Hair Work 67—91

Manicuring 91 — 104

Facial Massage 104—126

Electrolysis 126—141

Chiropody 141—162

THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

PART I.

PHYSICAL AND ME^NTAL REQUIREMENTS
OF THE BARBER.

In considering- the idea of becoming- a barber, the
first question that presents itself is: What are the
requirements necessary in order to insure success
after laboring- at this work? Will my nervous sys-
tem permit of handling- the razor? Will the nature
of work I have done in the past bar me from this
profession? Are my mental propensities such thatthey
will allow me to wait upon others with patience and
with solicitude for their welfare? The question is
often asked by those preparing- to take up the work:
"Will I make a barber?" There is but one answer to
this, and that is, have you patience and energy to
practice diligently at the work until you haye thor-
oughly mastered it, providing- you have at your dis-
posal the opportunity for constant practice and the
assistance of skillful instructors?

There is no part of the barber trade that is impos-

10 THE BARBERS' MANUAI^.

sible for anyone with ordinary ability . No man is too
nervous to take up this trade as it is part of your
education while a student to overcome your nervous
temperament. Proper practice (of which we shall
Pfive you a description in the following pages) is sure
to overcome all disadvantages in this line, but we
would advise that no person take up this work who
has not first made up his mind to become a public
servant, to be patient and painstaking with custo-
mers, and to be always pleasant and agreeable.

This is not a work that requires any special adapt-
ation, but like every other trade that is mechanical,
it is one that requires practice. Some will tell you
that you never can become a barber if you are not
gifted with particular talents, but it has been demon
strated that the most awkward beginners often make
the most graceful graduates. Grace and ease of mo-
tion are acquired by the continued using of certain
muscles.

Good taste has much to do with proper hair cutting-
and the different styles of this work must necessarily
be a study. No man is naturally gifted with ability
to trim hair gracefully, and each one must practice
and study this work alike. While some are more apt
and painstaking than others, every one can follow
examples and directions laid down by instructors.
Thus you see no person of sound mind and ordinary

THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 11

ability need exclude themselves from this trade if
they are willing- to apply themselves to the work.
Carelessness has no place in barber business, and
no one will succeed either in business for himself or
as a journeyman, who is not both caerfulwith his own
appearance as well as that of his shop.

PART II.

SELECTION AND CARE OF TOOLS.

Good tools in every mechanical trade have much
to do with the tradesman's success. This is particu-
larly true of the Barber Trade. No one can be a
first-class workman without first-class tools kept in
proper order. We too often find tradesmen trying to
apply their skill with tools wholly unfit for their
work.

RAZORS.

In the selection of a Barber's Outfit one of the
most essential things is the Razor. Many times a
perfect razor is condemned by the workman who has
not given it a satisfactory trial or honed it down to a
perfect edge. New razors are never honed in perfect
condition, and every razor when first purchased

12 THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

should be g-iven at least a week's trial before being
condemned. No one can tell perfect steel from the
looks of it unless it has been burned in grinding,
which would cause it to show black spots, such spots
as we sometimes find in a chisel or plow shear. In
selecting a razor, as far as the steel is concerned,
this is the only thing to look for. You will never be
able to discoyer whether your razor is too soft or
too hard from shaying and honing it, as there are too
many conditions which afiFect a razor while in pro
cess of sharpening. The fact that a razor sharpens
slowly or that it takes time to bring it to an edge
is no indication that the steel is hard or soft, one
reason being a razor may have but little concave
and therefore so much of the blade strikes the hone
that it naturally cuts away slowly. It is an easy
matter, however, to detect good or poor workmanship
in the manufacture of this tool.

A full concave razor is one that is hollowed out in
such a manner as to leave the thinnest part of the
blade between the back of the razor and the edge-
This leaves a bulge or thicker part between the edge
and the thinner portion of the razor, and can be
detected by rubbing with finger and thumb down the
sides of the blade as shown in the cut.

A half and three-quarter concave have less of a
' oUow grind as described. The full concave is the

SIZES.

CONCAVES.

Full Three-fourths Half

concavePIain grind
POINTS.

Squa

re point. Hollow point. Dutch point. Irish point.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 13

most expensive style of grinding' we have, and is only
used in a high grade razor. It is the most desirable

TESTING A CONCAVE.

as it lightens the weight of the blade according to the
width of it, and requires less honing and stropping
to vsharpen the same.

r a selecting tools never stick to certain brands
simply because they have been recommended, for
nearly every well known razor has cheap imitations.
The five-eight size is ordinarily the most convenient
and, although it is a little larger than most barbers
prefer, the razor always grows smaller instead of

14 THE BARBERS' MANUAL,.

larger, and it is best to guard against getting them
too small to begin with.

SHEiARS.

The quality of shears can be tested by a close ex-
amination of the blades. In the cheaper qualities,
or what is known as the steel laid, only a small por-
tion of the blade is solid steel. This quality of
shears is usually heavier in proportion to the length
than those of the grade known as full steel. In
nearly every cheap grade of shears, by examining the
inside of the blades, you will see a different oolor in
the metal at the point the iron and steel are welded
together. A steel laid shear, as a rule, gives good ser-
vice as long as it lasts, but it is not as durable as
one made entirely of steel. The full steel shear usu-
ally has thin, narrow blades that are sprung in such
a shape that when the shears are closed the two
blades only touch each other at the point. A non-
experienced man is often liable to mistake this as a
flaw, but a shear, in order to cut at the point, must
have the spring or set. The patent burr fasteners as
a rule are of little advantage, as a shear must be
ground and set at intervals during its service. Never
try to sharpen your own shears or tighten the
screws as in this way you are apt to spring the
blades and make them entirely useless-, it costs but

THE GENUINE IMPORTED RAZOR. THE CHEAP IMITATION.

FULL STEEL, FRENCH PATTERN.

STEEL LAID, NICKLE HANDLE.

CHEAPER GRADE, JAPAN HANDLE.

THE BARBERS' MAKUAL,. IS

a small amount to have your shears well ground, and
well ground shears are as essential to good work as
a properly ground razor Never give your shears to
the street grinders, nor try them on any shear sharp-
ening device. When a shear becomes too smooth, it
can sometimes be wired a trifle by rubbing it over a
rough hone or piece of steel, but this should not be
praticed often. The blades must be roughed to a
certain extent in order to keep the hair from slipping

out when the blades come together.

The cheaper grades of shears, as a rule have the
black japanned handles, while the higher grades are
nickel handled and highly polished. A seven, seven
and one-half and eight inch shear are the most con-
venient sizes for barbers' use.

HONES.

There are many different grades and qualities of
hones, and no doubt the opinion of barbers varies in.
regard to this article more than in regard to any
other tool in the barber's kit. The German Water
Hone is the oldest style, or the first razor hone used.
They still are considered by many to be the best hone
in the market. There is certainly nothing that will
compare with them for the apprentice, as they cut

16 THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

slow and neyer overhone, as does the coi,xser and
faster cutting stones. It usually requires a little
more time to cut a razor to an edge on this stone,
but once to an edg-e it keeps it in the same condition
without damaging- the blade.

In using the oil or lather hone, more care should be
taken to prevent "overhoning," for when the razor is
honed to an edge, it will, with more honing, crumble
or break away to what is known as the wire edge.
The lather hones are of many different qualities and
it is something of a gamble to get a perfect hone.
They vary greatly in prices according to quality.

The Swatty, the same as the lather stone, is fast
cutting, and is probably ^.he hardest hone to work
with although it brings a razor to an edge quickly.
An apprentice would seldom be successful with this
style of hone. They are highly recommended by the
expert or old barber, but should never be recom-
mended to a beginner.

STROPS.

Strops should always be used in pairs, canvas and
leather. The canvas is the one you first apply to the
razor and finish it with a smooth leather strop*
Razors in constant stropping, on a leather strop be-
come too smooth, and require a certain amount of use

'if'

T*l

WATER

OIL OR LATHER

SWATY

SHELL AND CANVAS, PADDr:D HANDLE.

HORSE HIDE AND CANVAS PATENT SWIVEL.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

on the canvas. This is in order to roug-hen or draw
out the edg-e, and when properly stropped they re-
quire less honing-. The higher grade of canyas strop
is made of seamless hose, and can be used on either
side. You should be careful to keep canvas strops
dry as dampness swells the grain and roughens the
strop. The better quality is usually made of linen
the smooth and tightly woven quality. The cheaper
grades are sometimes made of canvas, and are known
as the flat web. They are of a single thickness, less
durable and can be used only on one side. Some
cheaper grades are also made of cotton. Canvas strops
in constant use gather dust and grit which should be
cleaned off by applying a little lather and immedi-
ately scraping it off with the blade of the shear, or a
similar blunt instrument. Grit on a canvas strop will
do much damage to a razor, and should be watched
for closely. In breaking in a new strop, the grain
should first be filled with beeswax or soap, and this
should be rubbed in thoroughly with a bottle or a
similar instrument. There is considerable labor at-
tached to preparing,' a pair of strops.

In selecting a leather strop, Russia leather is usu-
ally most desirable, although the most expensiye, and
is a tough, thick, serviceable leather. It is usually
told by the smell, and by the grain on the back of
the strop It requires some time to prepare a Rus-

18 THE BARBERS' MANUAI*.

sian leather strop for service, but when once broken
in, it will last a lifetime, and is not easy to cut. The
strop should be prepared by putting- thick lather on
the surface, and rubbing- it in well, in the same man-
ner as the canvas strop. From five to ten minutes
should be spent on a Russia leather strop every
day for two or three weeks. The labor required
in preparing- this strop is worth more than the strop
itself. Many old barbers possess strops worth from
$5.00 to $25.00. A Russia leather improves with age_
A pig- skin strop is of the same nature, and should
be broken in in the same way; it is most favored by
some barbers, and although not quite as durable, it
is more easily prepared. These strops are never made
in cheap qualities, there being- but two grades,
medium and heavy.

The horsehide strop is made of many different
qualities, and sells at different prices. The shell, or
horsetail, is probably the best of this class. It is
always smooth, never requires finishing or breaking
in, and is of a thinner or lighter grade. This is the
most durable of horsehide strops. The other quali-
ties or cheaper g-rades are of a softer material, and
usually draw or hang- to the razor in stropping-.
This quality of strop usually requires more work to
put a razor in condition, and they are less service-

HIGH GKADE, IMPROVED SPRING.

CHEAPER GRADE, OLD STYLE SPRING.

THE BARBERS" MANUAL. 19

able. They are easily cut and short lived. When
they once begin to work rough, there .i" no remedy
for them.

CLIPPEiRS.

Of the strictly high grade clippers there are but
few brands to select from. Clippers are constantly
changing and being improved upon, and like all
classes of machinery, they soon become old style.
Among the latest improvements there is one called
the "pull spring." It is prompt in action, strong
and serviceable, and can be adjusted to most any
hand. This spring is found in but two brands of
clippers. The adjusting blade made to cut different
lengths is of little or no use, for its work is ragged
and gives the hair the appearance of three or four
weeks' growth. The only care that is necessary for
this grade of clippers is that they should be kept well
oiled and when once properly adjusted, should be
left in that state. It is bad policy to readjust the
machine, except when it must be taken apart and
cleaned. The plates should be wiped off about once
a month, or should be washed out without readjust-
ing by working kerosene through them. Sewing ma-
chine or bicycle oil is the best to use. This grade of
machine can be made to cut two lengths by sim-

30 THE BARBERS- MANUAIv.

ply turning- it over iti the hand and using- it for the
neck or "00" clipper. This saves the necessity of
two pair of clippers.

Among- the cheaper g-rades the brands are numer-
ous and all about the same quality. Some have
the spring-s in the handles, others have the concealed
spring in the blades. They are so constructed that
they will cut but one length, and in doing- the nicer
part of the work it would be necessary to have a
short or an "0" clipper besides the regulation length
of an eigth inch. These clippers like the higher
grade, should be thoroughly cleaned and oiled about
once a month, or according to the amount of work
being done.

COMBS.

In the selection of combs, the "hand made" bone
comb is preferable; It should be a tapering comb of
medium size, and one that can be well handled in
long- or short hair. A neck comb is usually con-
sidered unnecessary where the comb is tapered from
a coarser to finer teeth.

Aluminum combs are considered by some the most
convenient, but there is an objection to this style of
comb, as the teeth often come in contact with the
blade of your shears.

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CONVENIENT TOOL CASE FOR TRAVELING BARBERS.

VH£ BARBERS' MANUAL. %

Among: the cheaper grades are the "machine made"
horn combs, which are usually more bluut and less
convenient. The heavy rubber combs are of no ser-
vice to the barber on account of their thickness.

Celluloid combs are of no value, for in singeing^
hair they are liable to catch fire.

Great care should be taken to keep a comb perfectly
clean. Thread or string is very handy in cleaning it.
Take a half dozen or dozen threads fastened at both
ends and comb through them until teeth are thor-
oughly cleaned.

TOOI^ CASES.

A tool case is not an absclute necessity, but is very
conyenient for carrying or keeping in place your
outfit. The best quality is leather and it should
have a sufficient number of pockets to carry all tools
of your outfit. The cheaper qualities are made of
canvas and can be obtained in any size desired.

JACKE^TS.

No barber should work at the chair without a
jacket, as it looks unprofessional and untidy to see
a barber at a chair in his shirt sleeves or wearing the
Did style apron.

The better quality of jackets are made of duck aad

22 THE BARBERS' MANUAL,.

have sometimes striped pockets and collars, or they
are often made up of black and white goods. Sleeve
vests are worn some by barbers but are not as uni-
versal as the regulation barber coat.

Cheaper qualities are of drill. In selecting a j acket
do not make the mistake of getting a waiter's jacket,
which is a short coat of the same material, but without
the convenient pockets of the barber's coat. Always
select a jacket with a collar and with detachable

buttons.

HAIR BRUSHES.

The above named articles are all that are necess^^y
for a journey man's outfit, but in conducting a shop for
yourself more tools are necessary and great care
should be taken in selecting good bristle brushes for
the hair. Barbers are often negligent as to the care
of their brushes, allowing them to become dirty and
greasy and unfit for use. A hair brush should be
cleaned thoroughly, at least once a month. The best
way of cleaning the brush is by strong ammonia wa-
ter or sea foam, rubbing the preparation thoroughly
through the bristles and with a coarse comb clean out
all the dandruff, etc., from among the bristles. After
the brush has been thoroughly cleansed and rinsed,
tap it lightly on the bristles until dry.

LATHER BRUSHES.
The most serviceable and probably the best lather

PLAIN WHITE BARBER JACKET.

SLEEVE VEST.

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u

t-(

m
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«

RUBBKR FERRULE.

CAMEL HAIR.

NECK DUSTER FOR BRUSHING LOOSE HAIR
AFTER CUTTING.

THE BARBERS, MANUAL. ^

brushes are those whose bristles are set in vulcanized
rubber. The soft camel hair brush is of no seryice
to the barber as it becomes too soft when in con-
stant use.

leather brushes as well as cups should be thor-
oug^hly rinsed before or after each shave.

STERILIZING AND ANTISEPTIC SOLUTIONS.

Sterilizing- your razor is a very important feature
in the barber business, also the use of antiseptics for
your brushes, cups and strops. In this care of tools,
much neg-lect has been shown among" past members of
the fraternity, oftentimes with disastrous results.
Your patronag^e can be increased by strict attention
to this one important feature. This process should
be resorted to as often as seems necessary. After
working oyer a sore face, or what we may term a
syphilitic subject, wash your hands in a mild solution
of Bichloride of Mercury. If you have no steam
sterilizer, your razors can be dipped or boiled without
injury to them in the same solution.

Steam sterilizers are much preferable and can be
secured as cheap as 75 cen.s. Plac6 your mugs, lather
brushes and hair brushes in water at a temperature
of a bout 150 degrees. Strops also may be treated the
same way and afterwards oiled with carbonized vase-
line. Strops will need this process very seldom.

24 THIS BARBERS' MANUAL.

PART III.

HONING AND STROPPING.

The sequel to a barber's success, as far as shaving" is
concerned, lies in honing" and stropping- the razor.
This is not a g^reat task when proper instructions are
given or when care is taken to hone at the proper
time or strop sufficiently while the razor is in use.
No deep art or mystery lies in this part of the profes-
sion as miny barbers who have never been properly
taught are sometimes led to suppose. Many work-
mei, good in every other part of the work, sel-
dom haye a sharp razor, and again, no barber has be-
come so proficient that at all times he has his razo^
sharp. There are so many different conditions of
atmosphere, heat and cold, etc., which affect the edge
of the razor that it is practically an impossibility to
keep one razor always in condition, but there can be
no plausible excuse for a man with two or three
razors not having one of them always with a keen
edge.

HONING.

No matter what hone is used, honing is always done
in the same way and the same method of testing the

THE BARBERS' MANUALc

edge is applied, but with each style of hone the edg-e
has an entirely different feeling- and it is always best
to become accustomed to one stone and learn the
peculiarities of its work. Never try to hone a razor
with a nick in it, nor with an extremely blunt edge,
as it is impossible to keep a smooth, straight edge
when it is necessary to cut the razor down to any
extent. Razors in this condition should always be

HONING.

sent to the grinder with instructions as to what style
af g-rind or concave is required.

In beginning your work, tirst prepare your hone. In
using- the water hone see that it is perfectly clean and
free from dirt or grease, then wet the rubber with
moderately warm water, also see that the hone is not
extremely cold or hot, as the temperature will haye
much to do in drawing out or extending the edge

26 THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

of the blade. Prepare your hone with a thick grit
or lather by rubbing the hone proper with the rub-
ber and always keeping it moist. Lay the razor
perfectly flat on the hone and draw toward the edge,
diagonally from the heel to the point as shown in cut.
Turn the razor on the back without lifting it from the
hone and slide into position for the other side. Hold
the razor with the first finger on the shank of the
blade in such a way as to turn it freely in the hand
and so that the entire length of the blade will be
honed alike. It will require some practice to become
handy in turning the razor. Work slowly and with
some old useless razor until you have mastered the
stroke. A slight mistake on the hone could easily
ruin a high grade razor.

Testing the edge of a razor is done by wetting the
thumb or finger nail and drawing the edge of the
razor over the thumb or nail with just enough heft
to allow it to cut in or slide over the nail. If the
razor has a blunt thick edge, it will slide over the
nail without cutting. This will signify that it needs
more honing to bring it to the proper condition. If
the razor cuts into the nail irregularly with a rough,
grating feeling this signifies that the razor has a
rough, wiry edge and requires more honing. The
razor, when in perfect condition, will draw into the
»^ail with the keen smooth edge. You cannot be de-

TESTING EDGE AFTER HONING.

TESTING EDGE AFTER STROPPING.

STROPPING.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL. Kf

ceived in this test when you become sufficiently ac-
quainted with the edge to detect the different feeling-s.
This test should be used only in honing- and not in
stropping-, as after the razor is stropped, it has an en-
tirely different feeling and would slide over the nail
as though greased.

In using the swatty or lather hone, mix a thick
lather and apply to the hone, always keeping it well
moistened with the substance.

It is not to be supposed that you will become a
skillful honer without the necessary practice and in-
struction, and much depends on the stropping after
leaving the hone, A razor will not always take the
same style of an edge. As stated, it sometimes de-
pends on the atmosphere or heat and cold. If diffi-
culty is met with in getting the required edge, it
oftentimes is a benefit to lay the razor by for a short
time and allow the temperature to make the change.
At times five minutes work will do more for you in
sharpening a razor than an hour at other times.
Thus you will see no man is always master of this
art.

STROPPING.

After a razor is properly honed it should be
stropped yery little, if any, on the canvas strop. If

2& THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

a razor seems to haye taken too smooth an edg^e,
it can be roughed a little with the canvas strop and
then smoothed to the proper condition on the leather,
or if a razor seems to be left a little too rough by the
hone it sometimes can be stropped to a better condi-
tion on the canyas. The main object being" to bring
it to the keen, vet smooth edge. A razor can be
smooth, and not keen and sharp or can be too
jmooth, but never too sharp.

Every barber has his pet razor, for with this par-
ticular one he has learned the requirements in hon-
ing" and stropping". Considerable practice is necessary
to become easy and graceful in stropping". The razor
should be held in such a way as to allow it to turn in
the hand easily and always be wiped over the strop
perfectly flat with back of blade as well as edge placed
tight on the leather, Turn it on the back without
lifting it from the strop, and as in honing, do this
work slowly and carefully until you have become
proficient in the motion. The best class of barbers
never try to play tunes with their razor and strops
as is often seen among those who care more for
makine: a show than for the edge of the razor. More
stropping is necessary with a freshly honed razor
than one that has shaved a half dozen beards. A
razor just off from the hone is usually a little rough
and irritating to the face and should be first used on

THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 29

a ligrlit beard. It is poor policy for a barber to hone
up all of his razors at once, or eveti more than one
at a time, for it is necessary to have at least one
razor always ready for any sort of beard that comcs
in. It is sometimes good policy for a barber to have
a strop filled with emery flour or razor paste. When
the edgies become too smooth and you have no time
for honing, a few strokes on the coarse strop will
draw out the blunt edge. This should not be prac-
ticed often, howeyer, and only with a razor that
has shaved forty or fifty men without honing.

Razors have been known to shave 500 men with
stropping only and again the same razor would not
hold an edge for a half dozen beards. It is not always
the fault of the barber.

PART IV.

SHAVING.

Shaving is an art. Proficiency in this work cannot
be obtained without much practice, and while you
will be benefitted much by following these rules, prac-
tical demonstration is the most essential guide.

In preparing a customer for a shave, first thor-

ughly rinse the brush and cup with warm water to

prevent the spreading of disease. A thick, creamy

30 THE BARBERS' MANUA.L.

lather should be mixed, just stiff enough to be handled
nicely on the face. If left too thin, it is apt to run
down the neck or on to the collar. Many barbers say
it is impossible to learn even how to lather in the
length of time our College proposes to teach the
trade, and it is very true that some men do not learn
this work well. While there is no skill to be dis-
played in lathering, a barber must always be careful
and painstaking in this work. The barber that will
not be thoughtful enough to do this work should
never need expect to claim custom, as this is the
first impression upon the customer. The face should
be lathered by applying the brush in a circular mo-
tion, which allows the brush to brew lather of itself.
The beginner is apt to handle the lather brush as the
painter does the paint brush. Care must be taken
not to allow the lather to work into the mouth, nose
or ears.

After applying the lather, rub it lightly into the
beard, and remember that whether the beard be hard
or soft, light rubbing answers the same purpose. It
will be your first impression, that if the beard is
thick and heavy, it will require hard rubbing. Bear
In mind that every man's face is tender and should
be handled carefully.

The beard should be rubbed from two to ten mit
utes, according to the growth of hair, Where the

THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

beard is dirty and full of g-rit, after thoroug-hly rub-
bing- it, the lather should be wiped off with a wet
towel and a new coat of lather applied. This will
only be necessary in extreme cases.

Always see that your customer is in an easy, com-

LATHERING.

fortable position in the chair, and do not lower the
head rest enoug-h to cramp the person's neck. The
skin must be always left loose so that it c^*_ redrawn
in any position required while under the razor.
Do not make the mistake of stropping your razor

THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

when you have nothing- else to do, thinking- it will be
leady for use when you have prepared the beard. A
razor must always be stropped just before using- it.

BACK HAND.

The philosophy of this is, the friction in stropping-
heats the steel and expands it, leaving a smoother

THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

edge than the blade naturally has when cool. While
the heat g-iven the razor is not the only benefit, it
explains the theory of stropping- just before shaving.
Always begin the shave on the right hand side,
draw the razor with a slanting stroke, as shown in
cut. The razor must be handled in such a manner as
to allow it to saw across the beard instead of pulling

FREE HAND.

straight. This motion is what makes shaving an
art. The stroke will be found very difficult for a be-
ginner, but by studying this motion while practicing^
much time will be saved. After the side of the face
has been shaved as far as the corner of the mouth, it
is necessary to use what we call the back handed

34 THE BARBERS' MANUAL,.

StiOke jt'his is done by turning- the hand as shown
in cut, and is considered more difficult than the free
arm motion. In order to master this, the first exer-
cise is to throw the elbow up nearly eyen with the
shoulder, and turn the back of the hand directly from
you. The mistake is usually made of crowding the
elbow down close to the side, or allowing" the arm to
rest on the customer's chest, thus permitting the
razor to drag instead of being carried with a gliding
stroke from point to heel. This stroke is used on the
side of the chin, and with the same motion run down
to the point of the chin, taking off the balance of the
beard as low as the jaw bone. From this point the free
arm motion is used ag-ain on the side of the neck as
far down as the grain runs. Care must be taken not to
allow the razor to g^o against the grain. In shaving-
the lower part of the neck, it will be necessary for
you to step around behind your chair and draw the
skin up with the thumb and down with the fingers as
shown in the cut, so that it will be perfectly tight
on the part of the neck which is being shaved. You
are apt to make a mistake by allowing- your fingers
to become damp and slippery, and haye difficulty in
drawing- the skin tight under your hand. Be sure
that your fingers are always dry, and the face shaved
clean as far as you go, not allowing bits of lather to
remain scattered over the shaved portion of the face.

FOLLOWING THE GRAIN DOWN.

BACK HAND, LEFT SIDE.

ACROSS CHIN.

UNDER LIP.

SECOND TIME OVER.

THE BARBERS, MANUA~ , 35

When the side of the face nearest you has been
shaved, turn the head on the head rest by lifting- it
from underneath, and not pushing- it over as though
handling" a block of wood. In shaving- the upper part
of the face on the opposite side, it is necessary to
use the back handed motion and change to the free
handed stroke in shaving the chin. When this is
completed, turn the face straight up, shaving directly
across the chin with the diagonal stroke, then shave
underneath as far down as the grain of the hair runs.
Next, turn the face toward jou and shave the oppo-
site side of the neck down with the back handed stroke
keeping with the g-rain. Shave the lower part of the
neck as was done on the opposite side. This part
of the shave is the most particular and should be
handled with the most care.

After shaving one side of the face, the razor should
be restropped, or even oftener if it is not giving sat-
isfaction. It is well to ask your customer if the
razor hurts the face, as a barber is never sure just
what satisfaction his work is givi^ig. A razor might
be cutting the beard nicely, but still rough enough
tc irritate the face, and this might not be detected
by the workman .

Aftercompleting the shave the first time over, strop
again. In shaving- the second time over, with a ten
der face, it is best to take the towel and wash the

THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

face, g-etting" all the soap oif the skin in order to pre-
vent irritation. This will be necessary only with ten-
der faces. Wet the hand by using- water bottle as

HOI^DING THE RAZOR AND WATER BOTTI^E.

shown in cut. Wet one side of the face at a time with
your hand and shave the second time oyer side ways

THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 37

to the grain, and not directly ag^ainst it as many bar-
bers have been taught to do. Never, under any circum-
stances, shave up under the jaw bone against the
g-rain as few faces can stand this torture when they
indulge in a shave of tener than once or twice a week.
This work can be done without any extreme pain on
ordinary faces, but it soon leads to irritation, in-
grown hairs and eruptions of the skin.

It is the custom of most men who shave eyery day
or every other day to shave but once over. Few men
want a close shave, but every man wants it smooth
and even. Do not leave rough patches, and do as
little work as possible the second time over. Many
ways are in vogue for washing- and drying the face
after the shave. The best care that can be taken
of the tender face is to apply two or three hot towels.
Fold the towels in such a way that they can be
drawn over the face and allowed to remain and steam
to soak the face. This removes all inflammation and
unpleasant feeling. After washing the face includ-
ing- the forehead and eyes, in this manner, apply
either bay rum or witch hazel, never both Bay rum
will smart while witch hazel is cooling and soothing.
The customer should always have his choice of cos-
metics. Dry the face by first placing- towel oyer the
face and rubbing the hands over the towel, then take
up the towel and dry the face as you would in wip-

38 THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

ing^ your own face, using- care that the towel is never
wiped over the face against the grain. Be cautious
in drying- around the ears and corners of the mouth
and be sure to dry the entire face thoroughly before
fanning it to prevent chapping. Apply magnesia or
powder either by rubbing the towel over the lump of
magnesia and applying- to the face or by using the
powder can. Sifter top can is usually preferable,
then wipe the powder all off from the face as it is
only applied to give it a smooth feeling- and to pre-
vent a glossy appearance of the skin.

This concludes the shave proper, but after setting-
Ihe custcner up in the chair complete your work by
combing the hair, curling the mustache, if required,
and such details as the customer may request.

Many old barbers make the mistake of not using
g-ood judgment in combing. Observe the style your
customer has been combed before, and try and comb
the hair as nearly like it as possible. By studying
these rules carefully much time can be saved in a
term of schooling, but some study will be necessary
to get the full benefit of them.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL,. 39

PART V.
HAIR-CUTTING.

Skill in hair-cuttingf is attained by a study of
styles and by an opportunity for constant practice.
No one can become a skillful hair-cutter without con-
stant attention to the work and there must be an
opportunity for constant practice. Here is where the
greatest disadvantage is found in theold style barber
shop apprenticeship. Men who pay for a good hair-
cut or a shave, naturally object to being made sub-
jects tor a novice to practice upon, consequently the
student who has no one to practice upon has no
chance for advancement.

It usually requires from two to three years to be-
come proficient in this work. However, the same
thing can be learned in two or three months with the
proper opportunities before you. No one can learn
this work or any part of it by seeing it done. \t is
necessary to apply yourself to this work constantly
until you have thoroughly mastered the different
styles, and the art of handling the shears and comb
have become a second nature to you. There can be

40 THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

as much genius displayed in the work as in the work
of the sculptor or the painter. Expression can be
displayed on the back of the head as well as in the
face. As the sculptor moulds here and there for
expression and character, so a slig^ht touch with the
shears and comb in the proper place, will display
graceful or awkward outlines. It is the barber, but
not the clothes that make the man. No amount of
reading- or study will reveal this art, althoug-h you
will be helped by suggestions and examples per-
formed before you. Observe closely the fashion
plates and directions that follow.

Probably the mos* simple of all hair-cuts is the
"full crown." This style is ordinarily intended lor
boys from ten to fifteen years old, but should be
given whenever r^^^nested.

It is made by using the clippers up to the crown of
the head, thus leaving only the top of the head un-
dipped. Some experience is necessary in order to
handle clippers properly. The greatest difficulty will
be in allowing the handles the full stroke, for the ap-
prentice, in nearly every instance, cramps his hand
and thereby allows the machine only about half of
its action. Be sure that it is given the full stroke to
prevent clogging of the hair.

After the clipper work is completed, then trim the
edge which remains, after the use of the machine, so

THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 41

that it is impossible to see how high the clippers were
used. After the edges have been evenly trimmed,
cut the top of the hair between the fingers as shown
in diagram. With this style, hair must be left long-
est in front, and should gradually taper down to the
short hair at the crown and on the sides of the head.

In making the outlines of the haircut, which is the
last and most noticeable part of your work, care
must be taken to make the lines graceful. You
should begin at the sifle of the head and in front of
the ear and cut either straight down the back of
the neck, on each side, or cut around as the customer
desires. Always ask your customer which style he
prefers. The outline made by the points of the shears
signifies the line to which you should shave, and this
outline should be made true and even.
HALF CROWN.

For the style known as the half crown cut, clippers
should be used only half way to the crown of the
head or a little above the ears. The line left by the
clippers should be straight around and not be allowed
to run down at the back of the head, as many barbers
do with this style of cut. After completing the clip-
per work, trim the remaining edges in the same
manner as in the full crown cut, giving a gradual
tapei to the hair, and so cutting out the clipper mark
that it cannot be noticed how high the clippers were

THE BARBERS' MANUAI,.

used. The top of the hair should be cut in the same
manner as in the crown cut, but the proper propor-
tion must be maintained. It will be necessary to

TRIMMING FULL CROWN.

leaye tne hair a little longer than in the full crown
cut. The usual mistake in this style is in leaving
the hair too bunchy at the crown making it appear

THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

i>trLI. CROWN COMPLETED.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

HALF CKOWN CUT.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 4r^

as thoug-h a wig had been placed on too of the head.
Study the fashion plate for this style.

HAIR TRIM.

The style that is known as the trim may be di-
vided into three lengths, the short, the medium and
the long- trim. All are cut the same, but the length
of the hair should be gauged according to the custom-
er's taste. For this style, clippers are not used at all.

It is best to begin on the side of the head and not
at the back as many barbers do. The advantag^e of
beginning- on a side and working around is, that it
saves time and extra work. Hair should always be
shortest at the lower edge and gradually taper to the
longer hair at the crown of the head.

The ordidary or medium length is the style worn
by most men nowadays, and in this cut it is necessary
to become the most proficient. Cut with the shears
and comb about two-thirds of the way to the crown.
After you have grone clear around the head, begin
where you left off with the shears and comb, and cut
through the fingers from the front toward the back.
Care should be taken not to g-et the hair too short
at the crown. This is apt to happen unless you take
particular pains to avoid it. After haying gon^ over
the top of the head do not make the mistake of cut-
ting around the forehead the same as with ^ woman's

46 THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

bangs- The ends of the hair at the forehead should
ouiy ce trimmed slightly, comb all the hair to one
side. This will allow the ends of the hair to remain
in the position the hair will be when parted. Trim
both ^ides alike so that the hair can be parted any-
where without leaving ragged edges on either side.
It is often the case that barbers part the hair before
trimming the ends. Avoid making this ^nistake, for
if both sides are not trimmed exactly alike, the next
time the hair is parted, if it is not parted in exactly
the same place, ragged ends will appear on one side
or the other. In making the outline, you will find
the work for this style of hair-cut more difficult than
with the crown or half crown cut.

COLLEGE CUT.

Comb the hair from the crown evenly in all direc-
tions, making a false crown at the center of the head.
Trim the lower part of the hair the same as outlin-
ing for the ordinary or medium trim. Keep combing
and trimming the edge until it is perfectly even, and
shows no ragged edge. This will allow the hair, as it
continues to grow, to have a massive or bulky ap-
pearance, and will leave it round and smooth, with
no marks of the shears to show. By trimming the
lower edges you shorten the hair underneath, giving

THK BAKBKRS' MANUAI,.

COI,I,«GE CUT— SIDE VIEW.

48 THE BARBERS' MANUAIy.

COLIvEGE CUT— BACK VIEW.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 49

the effects as shown in the cuts on pages 47 and 48.

It may be trimmed with the Eng-lish bang- as shown
in the side view or as the ordinary trim. The hair,
when combed straight down from the forehead, must
be trimmed even with the lower edge.

POMPADOUR HAIR-CUT.

This style is little worn now, but no barber can call
himself proficient without having mastered this par-
ticular style. There was a time when it was consid-
ered the most difficult of all cuts, but it is now con-
sidered as easy as any. The hair should be clipped
the same as in the crown cut, then wet the brush and
comb the hair straight up, using the comb just ahead
of the brush. This will prevent the hair from ly-
ing down flat and will put it in a proper position to
be trimmed. Trim the edges left by the clippers, but
avoid getting deep into the hair.

After the edges are trimmed on both sides, start
directly in the middle in front, and work back. In
this way you have a better line to be guided by for
the balance of the trim. Your mistakes will be in
trimming off too much of the sides, thereby making
it round. See that the hair has a gradual slope from
the front back to the crown; Use the same care i<
outlining a* with the other style.

POMPADOUR.

child's trim with bangs.

CHILD S DUTCH CUT.

50 THE BARBERS' MANUAI,.

PART VI.

BEARD TRIMMING.
VAN DYKE BEARD.

In most cases, the beard is trimmed short, using the
clippers to the corners of the mouth, leaving only the
chin undipped. Next trim with the shears, then
comb the edge of the beard which remains after the
use of the clipper and gradually work to a point,
funnel shaped at the point of the chin. Great care
must be taken to have the work smooth underneath,
the chin, so that the beard, when the head is in an up-
right position, will show no ragged edges at the
bottom. You should always be cautious about trim-
ming near the edge of the upper lip, as the hair usual-
ly grows thin on that part of the face, and a verj'
little trimming will show the bare spots.

In order to have the points exactly in the center it ic
necessary to trim on both sides, first on the one and
then on the other, and you must not finish one side
before beginning on the other. In case the customer
does ./ot want the side of the face and neck clipped,
trim closely with the shears, leaving the same length

THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

THK VAN DYKE BEARD.

52 THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

of beard andg-iviugf no proportion until you reach the
corner of the mouth, then trim it to a point the same
as when clippers are used. This is a business or pro-
fessional man's beard trim, often called the "Napo-
leon," and you should be cautious in adapting- it for
the minister or for elderly gentlemen.

THE PARTED BEARD.

This style of beards is little worn nowadays, but
those who possess a parted beard like those who wear
the pompadour hair-cut, are particular about its ap-
pearance. It is one of the most difficult trims in the
barber business.

The beard should first be parted in the center and
combed out toward each side. The hair should then
be trimmed closely on the neck either with the shears
or with the clippers, and gradually taper to the longer
hair on the sides of the face. This beard is directly
opposite to the Van Dyke and is meant to broaden
the expression of the face and not to lengthen it.

The beard on the side of the face should usually
be trimmed down until it is about half an inch long
until near the chin, where it should grow longer as in
the cut In any style of beard trim, care must be
taken to have the hair trimmed closely on the neck.
More work is necessary on this style of trim than
the ordinary hair-cut, and this is a part of the work

THE BARBERS' MANUAL. S3

THE PARTED BEARD.

54 THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

that you receive the least practice on. Few barbers
are expert beard trimmers. The CoUeg^e offers a
splendid opportunity for practice in this work as well
as all others.

There are many other styles of wearing the beard,
such as the "Mutton Chops,'* chin whiskers, etc. No
skill is required in trimming- these, and the only care
necessary must be displayed in blocking- out a new
beard, getting both sides even and always following
the directions of your customer, as there are as
many styles in blocking out whiskers as you hav<»
customers to wait upon.

THE BARBERS, MANUAL.
PART VII.

SHAMPOO.

There are various methods of shampooing-, al-
though all are practically the same in the end, the
only difference being- in the substance or material
used in giying- the shampoo. The material most

fayored now is shampoo jelly. It is a substance
which foams readily, is mild, cleansing, and health-
ful to the scalp.
In preparing for the shampoo, place a towel above

% THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

the hair cloth, both in front and back; to prever'
wetting- the customers collar and clothes. About .
thimbleful of the shampoo jellj' is sufficient for an or-
dinary shampoo. Take the shampoo jelly in the left
hand and the water bottle in the right hand, apply
water and rub the shampoo into the hair. This pro-
duces a liffht lather, and when sufficient water has
been used to chang-e the jelly to a lather, set the bottle
down and rub with both hands as in cut. Avoid rub-
bing- with both hands in the same direction at the
same time as this would be uncomfortable for the cus-
tomer. Let each hand operate opposite to the other
Rub with the balls of the fing-ers and do not scratch
the scalp with the fing-er nails. Rub hard or lig-ht as
suits the customer, usually rubbing- the scalp about
five or ten minutes, then prepare the shampoo stand
and bowl.

Regulate the temperature of the water before get-
ting- your customer over to the shampoo bowl.
Where you have no water connections procure a suf-
ficient amount of water at the proper temperature
(luke warm) in some convenient dish in order to pour
over the head. When everything- is in readiness, have
your r-'stomer step from the chair to the shampoo
stand, and force him to lean over far enoug-b so that
the water will not run down his neck, while washing-
the lather from his head. See that the soap is thor-

THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 57

DUghly rinsed from the hair and that the scalp is
well cleansed. Avoid letting your customer raise his
head up as soon as you have completed pouring on
water or using the spray. Shake the water out of the
hair as much as possible before using the towels, then
dry the hair enough so the water will not run down
the neck when the customer raises his head up. Be
careful not to get lather in the customer's eyes.

After the face has been wiped place your customer
again in the chair and dry the hair thoroughly with
the towel. In drying the hair do not place the towel
over the head in such a way that the ends will fly
around in the customer's face or eyes. Handle the
towel so that the ends will be kept at the back of the
head instead of in the face. Towels without fringe
are preferable. The size of the towels should be 16x28
inches. This is the most convenient size for shav-
ing or shampooing. Do not try to dry the hair by
fanning as this leaves the hair stiff and harsh. Al-
ways rub until thoroughly dry, thereby making it
light, loose and fluffy.

EGG SHAMPOO.

For an egg shampoo use a fresh egg, break the end
sufficiently to allow the white to come out a little at
a time and rub thoroughly through the hair. After

oi THE BARBERS' MANUAI,.

rubbing the head well the same as with the shanipw^
jelly, wash the hair out the same as in the ordinary
shampoo, but apply a little soap or jelly when you
are rinsing the hair.

An egg shampoo is supposed to leaye the hair in a
better condition than any other kind of a shampoo.

ALCOHOL SHAMPOO.

An alcohol shampoo is the same as an ordinary
one with the exception of rubbing alcohol through
the hair after drying it.

From fifteen to twenty-five minutes is usually
necessary for giving a good shampoo. Men pay more
for a shampoo than for a sea foam, and it is the work
attached to it that makes it more expensive. Too
many barbers are accustomed to slighting this work,
which requires as much pains as any part of the
barber business. A man may receive a bath for the
same price that he pays for a shampoo, and if it
was simply for cleansing the head all customers
would take a bath in preference to paying simply
for having the head cleaned.

A shampoo is not properly done unless the hair is
well rubbed and thoroughly dried.

DRY SHAMPOO.

Dry shampoo can be given the same as an ordinary

THE BARBERS' MANUAL,. W

shampoo, using- the shampoo jelly or a shampoo bar,
but the hair should be washed out by using wet
towels instead of taking- the customer to the shampoo
stand. Use a towel wet enough to wash the lather
out of the hair, and rinse your towel three or four
times while cleaning the scalp. Dry the hair the
same as before.

SEA-FOAM.

Sea-foam answers the same purpose as a shampoo,
but it requires less work. The material used is a
liquid. Apply it to the hair the same as water and
rub the head vigorously. Apply a sufficient amount
to wet the hair thoroughly and by rubbing^ well, it
will cause it to foam and evaporate. After a liberal
foam has been obtained, rub with both hands as in a
shampoo until entirely evaporated. Then take a wet
towel and rinse out the hair the same as in the dry
shampoo. Less time and less work is required in
g-iving^ a sea-foam and a smaller price is charged for
it. Sea-foam is very cleansing, but less beneficial to
the scalp than the shampoo. It removes dandruff for
a time, but is more apt to create a growth of dan-
druff than to destroy it.

SINGEING.

Singeing is to promote the growth of the hair. By

THE BARBERS" MANUAL.

burning- the ends after it has been cut it closes the
pores of the hair keeping- the fluid in and preventing
the ends from splitting. It is one of the best remedies

SINGEING

for falling hair and it strengthens the growth. Hair
can be singed at any length.

Use a singeing taper or gas light taper in the

THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 61

right hand, with the comb in the left, and for short
hair, singe over the comb as in cut. Where the hair
is long, singe over the fingers the same as in cutting
long hair. This work is very simple after you have
learned to trim, still it is a very important and a neces-
sary qualification for the barber. The most pains
should be taken around the crown and forehead as
these are the parts where the hair is apt to fall out
and needs the most strengthening. In singeing the
back of the neck, use the comb above the blaze to pre-
vent the fire from running up and catching the hair
above the singer. This is the only difficult part of
singeing.

DYEING HAIR.

The different formulas and preparations for dye-
ing hair are numerous, although there is but one kind
used to any extent by the barber. This is called Dye
No. 1 and No. 2, called so from the fact that it is in
two parts, or two bottles, labeled Nos. 1 and 2. This
is the only instantaneous dye we have, and for this
reason is the one preferred by the barber. It is sel-
dom used in dyeing the entire hair or whiskers but is
the universal application for the mustache. Dyeing
the mustache is but little practiced nowadays, but it
is very important that the barber should know how.

THE BARBEUS' MANUAL,

for serving- customers with this part of the work leads
to other trade.

In dyeing, no matter what kind of dye is used, first
thoroughly clean the hair or mustache. Sea-foam is
the best to use for this purpose as it dries quickest.
After the hair is thoroughly cleaned apply No. 1,
either with the fingers or tooth brush. No. 1 simply
prepares the hair for the dye, and does not color or

effect the skin. After drying No. 1 by fanning: (not
rubbing) apply No. 2 with a small brush, using it
over the comb as shown in cut.

Great care must be taken in dyeing the mustache
or hair, to have a very little of the material ca the
brush so as to prevent its running onto the skin, "^he
most difficult part of this work is getting close to the

THE BARBERS' MANUALr. 63

roots of the hair without touching- the flesh. When
the dye is once on it cannot be washed out, even
with soap or ammonia, and it is obliged to remain
until worn off.

"Where other kinds of dye are used they are applied
the same as No. 2, first by cleansing- the hair and
applying the fluid, but these dyes do not change the
color of the hair immediately. Twenty-four hours is
usually required for all other dyes to do their work.
Any number of applications can be had according- to
the color required, each application making- the hair
a little darker, but with Nos. 1 and 2 it is immediately-
dyed black. No other color can be obtained.

BIvEACHING HAIR.

Hair may be bleached from dark to light by using
a solution of Hydrogen of Peroxide.

For bleaching-, first clean the hair the same as for
dyeing-, and apply the bleach in the same way as you
apply the dye, being careful to keep it off from the
flesh. As many applications can be applied as re-
quired, each application changing- the color of the
hair a few shades lighter. Twenty-four hours' time
is required after the application to change the color
of the hair

64 THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

PRICES.

Too often the mistake is made by beginners in this
work, who think they will obtain more practice and
as gfood profits, by cutting- prices. No g-reater error
could be made and the writer would advise any man
contemplating this profession as a life work to aban-
don the work entirely if the regulation prices cannot
be had. Nearly any line of day labor will be found as
lucrative as cheap barber work, if not quite as easy.
Your time and money spent in mastering- this pro-
fession is putting you in possession of a serviceable
trade and your place cannot be filled by the ordinary
laborer. It is one that commands and receives good
prices for good services, and no one will be benefitted
by inferior work at cut rates.

The average prices for barbering- are as follows:

Hair-cutting 2Sc

Honing Razors 2Sc

Singe 25c

Beard Trimming 25c

Shampoo 25c

Mustache Dye 25c

Sea-foam 10c

Shaye . . 10c.

Dyeing the entire head of hair should be
charg-ed for according to the length of the hair and

THE BARBERS, MANUAL. 65

material required for doing^ it, usually frota $1.00 to
$2 00 is the regulation price for hair or whiskers.

In giving- a shave where it is requested that the back
of the neck be shaved it is usually customary to
charge fiye cents extra. For these prices the best
brands of cosmetics should be used.

MISCELIvANEOUS BRIEJES.

Do not go out looking for employment at this work
without a clean shaye, clean linen and a shine. Your
personal appearance has as much to do with holding
positions as your work itself.

Neatness. Careful work. Politeness to customers.
Speed comes by practice. Never hurry unless re-
quested to. Do not seek to increase trade by cutting
prices. I^ady hairdressing- is an accomplishment no
barber can afford to be without. A well regulated
barber shop should have the air of a parlor and its
workmen the courtesy of a reception committee.

A very essential thing of the barber profession is
Dermatology, a science which deals with the treat-
ment of hair, scalp and skin diseases. A full course
of lectures delivered to the students of our Barber
College by Dr. B. Franklin Tolson, L,. L,. B., M. D., is
given in our Ready Reference Guide, which also con-

G6 THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

tains eig-hty select formulas for all cosmetics used in
the barber shop. Price 25 cents.

It is customary to leave a razor or some security
for your position if you are not irn mediately ready to
g^o to work. After securing- the position it will always
be expected of you to keep work-stand, chair and
glass neatly arranged and clean. A barber is not
usually expected to take care of the shop further
than this, althoug-h in small places, where there are
no porters, it is customary for the barber to help care
for the shop.

FORMULAS.

HAIR TONIC (BALDNESS.)

Tinct. capsicum 2 drs.

Water ammonia ( 10 per cent) 1 oz.

Pilocarpine hydrochlorate 5 grs.

Colog-ne 3 ozs.

Use on scalp twice a day.

HAIR TONIC.

Tr. Cantharides 4 drs.

lyiq. Ammonia 4 drs.

Rose Water 2 ozs.

Glycerine 4 ozs.

Bay Rum 10 ozs.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 57

REMEDY FOR DANDRUFF.

Resorcin 5 to 10 parts.

Castor Oil 45 parts.

Alcohol 150 parts.

Balsam of Peru 0 5 part.

Rub in daily with a piece of flannel.

HAIR DYE.

No. 1.

Gallic acid 20 ffrs-

Alcohol 5 dr>..

Water 2 drs.

No. 2.

Silver nitrate 1 dr.

Ammonia 3 drs.

Gum arabic . . 30 grs.

Water 6 drs .

Dissolve the silver nitrate in the ammonia and
the g"um arabic in the water. Then mix.

SHAMPOO PASTE.

White soft soap 4 ozs.

Honey soap, in shavings 2 ozs.

Oliye oil 1 fl. oz.

Water 1 fl. oz.

Potassium carbonate 1 dr.

Melt all together and beat into paste. May be per-
fumed if desired.

68 THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

IMPROVED SEA-FOAM.

Alcohol 16 ozs

Water 16 ozs.

Aqua ammonia ... 1 dr,

Cologne water 1 dr.

HAIR BLEACH.
The best preparation for this purpose is Peroxide of
Hydrogen.

BAY RUM.

Jamaica rum 16 ozs.

Rect. spts 64 ozs.

Water 48 ozs.

Mix and add:

Oil of bay 1 oz.

BARBER COLLEGE BRILLIANTINE.

Castor oil 1 oz.

Alcohol absolute 2 oz.

Oil of rose Q . S.

Oil of neroli Q. S

This makes a gooJ preparation and is practically
inseparable.

BARBERS' POWDER.

Salol 1 dr.

Starch , 2 oz

Mix and make a powder.

THE BARBERS' MANUAI^ 69

HAIR POMADE.

Lard 4 lbs.

Yellow wax 3 oz.

Palm oil 1 oz.

Melt, strain, and add while stirring-:

Rose water 4 ozs.

Oil berg-amot 1 oz.

OINTME^NT FOR BARBER'S ITCH.

Tannic acid , 15 gr.

Sulphur, precipitated Yz dr.

Petrolatum 5 drs.

GLYCERINE FACE LOTION.

Mucilage of Flaxseed 8 fl oz

Glycerine 8

Alcohol 2

Essence of rose Yz

Borax 2

Rose water, sufficient to make 32

VIOLET WATER.

Essence Violet, French's 8 oz

Deodorized Alcohol 7 pints

Rose water 1 pint

Mix and filter.

70 THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

MEN'S FACIAL AND SCALP MASSAGE. ,

Recently Men's Facial Massage has become as popu-
lar in the barber shops as any work that he is called
upon to do and one that affords a splendid revenue,
if the skill and equipment for this department is as
carefully looked after as the other branches. This is
a profession that is more a matter of study and demon-
stration than of practice. It differs from the other
branches of the business inasmuch as the high efficiency
in mechanical skill is not required, but a knowledge of
the muscles of the face, their development and manipu-
lations require a careful understandmg.

Man}^ methods of doing this work are employed,
usually varying according to the facilities obtainable.
We have divided the work into three divisions, i. e.,
Vibratory, Electric and Finger manipulations, so that
one or the other can be used in any locality or under
any circumstances that may exist. The training of
our System of Colleges includes all three of these
methods so that one is qualified to take up the work
in any establishment, or satisfy any employer, no mat-
ter what method he may adopt.

Massaging is done for the purpose of eradicating
wrinkles, black heads, pimples and other facial blem-
ishes, as well as to clear the complexion, develop

THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 71

shrunken muscles, fill out hollow cheeks and harden
flabby skin. It is a treatment recommended by physi-
cians and if followed out according to the instructions
laid down here, will produce surprising results. While
every face will require the same general principle, they
must be varied to suit each particular subject. On
account of the beardy surface, men's facial massage is
taken up by entirely a different set of manipulations
than is used for ladies' work, so that one cannot follow-
out the same system for both sex.

APPARATUS REQUIRED FOR VIBRATORY
AND ELECTRIC MASSAGE..

Probably the most popular instrument now in use in
connection with the facial massage is the Vibrator, of
which there are a great many patterns and different
manufactures, all working on the one general principle
of rapid vibrations to stimulate the circulations and
exercise the muscles by kneading and manipulating.
Among the higher priced machines, are those that are
constructed to operate a number of different styles of
movements thus savmg time that would be required by
the hand process.

The machines are operated by electricity, water power
and in some instances by storage battery. Should you

THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

CABINET BASE MASSAGER.

RUBBER CUP MASSAGER, STORAGE BATTERIES,

RUBBER CUP MASSAGER, CITY CURRENT.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

NATURAL HAND MASSAGER.

be located in a city where electricity or city water
power cannot be had and wish to use the vibratory, the

76 THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

storage battery of course would be the only power that
would be obtainable. With this instrument no elec-
tricity is applied to the subject, as is quite frequently
believed and it has nothing to do with the benefits of
this method of massaging, by which the length of time
required for the operation is shortened.

Among the different grades of instruments, are those
that stand on the roller cabinet, so that they may be
placed convenient to the different chairs of the shop
without difficulty, some are built to hang from a spring
in an iron stand, while others stand on a wooden
cabinet.

There are others more simply constructed which in
themselves are a small motor attached to either the
city wire or storage battery and operate a small ham-
mer-like rubber cup, from within the instrument held
in the hand.

Only one style of manufacture offers the machine
that gives the natural hand massage.

This is recommended very highly by numerous physi-
cians on account of the benefits that can be derived
from the hand in place of the mechanical rubber cup.
This instrument has an arm running from the motor
to the hand, giving it the rapid movement and allowing
some skill to be displayed in manipulation of the differ-
ent movements.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

ELECTRIC MASSAGE.

The electric apparatus that operates entirely on an-
other principle supplies electricity direct to the patient,
by means of the roller, sponge disc or through the
operator and gives what is known as the Electric Mas-
sage. The Faradic current is the only one suitable for
this style of massage and it is essential that a battery
of light voltage is used to avoid a severe shock at any
time. Among the many manufactured is one that in-
cludes the dry cells with conducting cords, sponge disc,

N24.4

,''ARAb/G BATTERY

M;^

ELECTRIC BATTERIES AND ACCESSORIES.

78 THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

rollers, brushes and other small accessories. It is the
only one intended exclusively for the barber and mas-
suer's use.

Quite frequently results can be obtained by the elec-
tric massage than cannot be reached by other means
and it is well to have this battery as part of your equip-
ments whether employed as a journeyman or conduct-
ing your own business. It is portable and can be
operated without danger of injurious effects. By many,
electricity is considered one of the best means of
destroying germs and contagious diseases.

For finger manipulation alone, without the use of
mechanical devices, it is only necessary to be provided
with hot water, towels and creams for that purpose.
Many prefer this method of massaging, although it
usually requires a little longer time to give it. The
nature of the creams and skin foods used for this proc-
ess is entirely different from that used with mechanical
devices, although each are for the purpose of cleansing
the skin and building up the tissue and is an important
factor in this work. A number of these devices are
suitable for the use of massaging the scalp as well as
the face. They should be kept well oiled, handled care-
fully and cups sterilized in a lo per cent solution of
carbolic acid after each treatment.

One specialist has the following to say about Vibra-

THE BARBERS' MANUAL. . 79

tory Massage : The general public is now so thoroughly
conversant with the great benefits of manual massage
or system of manipulation and kneading for relief of
all ailments, that we will not devote any space to this
subject, but mechanical massage which is fast taking
the place of hand manipulation is not so well known.
Whenever a treatment is give'n, however, there is such
an invigorating and agreeable effect produced, that
your patron not only discards the old methods, but
becomes a more frequent user of the new. Never in
the history of any treatment has there been anything
that has sprung into popularity in so short a time as
Vibratory Message, more commonly known as Mechan-
ical Massage.

No barber shop, no masseur's or Dermatologist's par-
lor or treating room is complete without an outfit.

FACIAL MASSAGE.

Poor circulation of the blood is the direct cause of
many affections of the skin and scalp as well as dis-
orders of the body. When the minute blood vessels
and pores of the face fail to perform their respective
duties and impurities are not properly eliminated, black
heads, pimples, wrinkles, etc., appear.

A treatment gives activity to the blood vessels which

80 THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

carry off the impurities and with the movement of the
massager the pores are opened and thoroughly cleansed,
leaving the skin soft and smooth.

These treatments are becoming so popular that not
only the men, but many ladies are taking them. As
any hygienist will appreciate, that this form of treat-
ment will do more in securing a beautiful complexion
and a lasting one, than all the cosmetics and alleged
beautifiers in the world.

SCALP TREATMENT.

There is no way possible of treating the scalp as can
be done by massage. As in the case of the face, it
produces a good circulation of the blood which gives
new life and strength to the hair and is a cure for all
scalp diseases.

This treatment is extremely refreshing and is felt for
hours afterwards. It is a popular treatment for the
quick cure of headache, neuralgia, muscular twitching,
insomnia, etc.

In giving a facial or head treatment, always finish at
the lower part of the neck, which draws the blood from
the brain, relieving congestion where it exists, and this
will give the best possible result.

BASED UPON NATURAL LAWS.

Hygeia-Vibration is no longer considered a fad, but

THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 81

a natural and scientific treatment, which has come to
stay. It is fast superseding the drugging and other
harmful methods.

Aside from the benefits already referred to in the
treatment of face and scalp, the combined vibrating and
kneading movements of a massager produce wonderful
results as an exerciser of the muscles and is a power-
ful influence upon the circulation and nerve fluids in
all ailments and weaknesses. It produces a decided
"warming" effect. Specialists, in conducting experi-
ments in vibratory treatment, have noticed the marked
increase in temperature of the part subjected to the
massage, the amount increased depending upon the
length of time the application is made and the degree
below normal temperature at the start. The treatment,
in fact, helps not only in local conditions, but fills the
patient from head to foot with new vigor and vitality,
building up the health generally a? nothing else can.
MUSCLES OF THE FACE.

In order that you will better understand the scien-
tific manipulations of the muscles as well as the outer
conditions of the skin, we present here the illustrations
defining each and every muscle, and in the following
pages describe how they are to be manipulated to bring
about the best results. For this illustration and descrip-
tion we are indebted to Dr. J. E. MacGregor.

DIAGRAM OF MUSCI.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 83

Frontal Bone.

Parietal.

Occiptal.

Squamous portion of Temporal.

Pronto-parietal (Coronal) and Occipito-pareital

(Lamboid) sutures.
Malar.

External Auditory Meatus.
Orbicularis Palpebrarum Muscle.
Zygomatici Major and Minor.
Masseter Muscle.
Orbicularis Oris.
Levator-Menti.
Sterno-mastoid.
Levator Auguli Scapulae.
Omo-Hyoid-anterior part.
Internal Jugular vein.
Facial Vein.
Temporal Vein.
Common Cortoid Artery.
Facial Artery.
Superficial Cervical nerves.
Facial Nerve.
Supra-maxillary division.
Trachea.
Occipito Frontalis.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

DESCRIPTION AND ACTION OF FACIAL MUS-
CLES.

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THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 85

FINGER MANIPULATION.

In order to give a satisfactory massage, it is first
necessary that your customer has a smooth shave to
manipulate successfully. If you have just given the
shave, keep your customer in the same position for
the massage and continue with it before drying the
face. With an ordinary shave, one or two hot towels
is sufficient, but to prepare for the massage use three
or four. If your customer comes to you with a smooth
shave, place him in the chair, cover him with a hair
cloth, arrange the breast towel the same as for giving
a shave and have the customer prepared for the hot
towel process. It is essential that you use clean water.
If you are so arranged that you draw the hot water
from a tank supplied by the building in which you may
be located, it is presumed that the water is clean as
it is usually boiled before reaching the faucet. If you
have an apparatus such as is used in numerous shops,
that is in itself an instantaneous heater where the
water is drawn from the city pipes this will be suit-
able, but if you have a small tank to be filled with well
water or from city pipes, you must be particularly
cautious that the tank or receptable holding the water
is kept free from all impurities.

It is very essential that the towels used are as hot

THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

as can . be handled in order to bring about the best
results. If your washstand is some distance away from
your chair, it is advisable to keep your towels folded
in such a manner that it will be easily unwrapped when
close to the face in order to let the steam of the towel
strike the face before applying the hot towel.

APPLYING HOT TOWEL.

We are now ready to place the towel on the face,
holding it at either end with the two hands in such
a manner that it will be drawn perfectly tight. Let
the center of the towel strike the chin and bring it up
over all parts of the face to be massaged, covering
the eyes and forehead, leaving only the end of the nose
uncovered. A small Turkish towel is most suitable for

THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 87

this use. Bringing one end of the towel np over the
other at the forehead and allow it to remain on the
face while saturating another towel. The second towel
may be laid on top of this one in the same manner or
after the first towel has rested on. the face a half a
minute. It may be taken off and replaced with the
second towel. It may be well that you use a third
towel well down on the neck, being careful that you
do not get the collar or shirt band wet. Repeat this
as often as it seems necessary to thoroughly steam and
redden the face, thus bringing blood to the surface and
assists the manipulation.

You now have the face ready for the rolling cream,
so called on account of the manner in which it rolls
off from the face during the manipulation. Without
drying on face, take a small portion of the cream in
the palm of the left hand and with the ends of the
fingers of the right hand, put a small amount on the
face at a time, distributing it as evenly as possible
without delaying the work or wasting more time than
is necessary. Time must be saved in this process in
order to start the manipulation before the face has
time to thoroughly dry. Have the cream evenly dis-
tributed over all parts that are to be massaged, giving
it a thin layer, similar to a coat of paint. Frequently
the cream becomes dry and does not separate readily;

88 THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

in this event, it can be softened or thinned with a small
amount of witch hazel. After yon have your cream
spread, rub the two hands together with a small amount
of cream in order to thoroughly saturate the insides
of the hands. Begin the manipulation as shown in
figure.

ROTARY CHEEK MOVEMENT.

Take your position back of the customer in such a
manner that you have free action of both arms. Place
the hands on the cheeks and rub in a rotary movement,
beginning at the jaw bone and work up over the

THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

cheeks toward the eyes and ears. Some practice will
be required to learn to manipulate with both hands
alike, using only the balls of the fingers and give what
IS known as the rotary movement. Repeat the manipu-
lation from five to ten times, varying it in such a way
that you will cover all parts of the side of the face to
the temple.

It will require some experience to know just how
many movements to make in order to get all over the
face before it starts to dry. On a fleshy person whose
face is naturally warm, the cream drys much faster than
on a thin bloodless face. Going to the second move-
ment, place the ends of the fingers together under the

STRAIGHT NASAL MOVEMENT.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

chin and with the two thumbs on each side of the nose
as shown in illustration.

Manipulate with the thumbs in a straight up and
down movement on both sides of the nose, working
down to the part of the cheek that has been manipu-
lated in the first movement. Repeat this manipulation
about the same number of times as the former. It is
necessary to place the fingers under the chin in order
to steady the hand while giving the thumbs the move-
ment. Continue down the face to the upper lip with
each thumb and continue down over the chin, still
keeping the end of the fingers in the same position
completing, this movement.

ROTARY FRONTALIS.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

Now place the ends of the fingers on the cheeks and
manipulate with the thumbs over the forehead in a
rotary movement as described in Rotary Frontalis.
This is to develop the Occipito Frontalis muscle to
eradicate the lines that form at the forehead.

Now we are ready for the kneading and rolling proc-
ess. Take your position at the side of the chair,
(starting on the right side) by picking up a roll of the

KNEADING AND ROLLING.

skin at the lower part of the ear and kneading and
rolling in the direction as shown in illustration,
varying the direction until you have covered the right

THE BARBERS" MANUAL.

side of the face, working from the ear toward tlie chin,
along the jaw bone, as well as toward the nose and up
toward the eyes. This is to strengthen the two mus-
cles No. 9 Zygomatic! Major and Minor and No. lO
The Masseter as shown in the diagram.

If the massage is given for the purpose of reducing
the flesh, it should be more vigorous as this will cause
the muscles to develop, taking the place of areolar
tissue, (fat) which is decreased, thus hardening the
flabby loose skin. At about this point in the operation

STRAIGHT FRONTALIS.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL, 93

the cream should begin to come off the skin in rolls.
Care should be taken that it is not allowed to work
underneath the collar. Continue to manipulate by
kneading on both sides as long as the cream rolls and
continue over the nose and forehead and between the
eyes. By stretching the skin, between the thumb and
fingers of the left hand, rub up and down over the
Occipito Frontalis with the second finger of the right
hand as described in illustration, Straight Frontal.

Now stretch the skin tight between the eyebrows
with finger and thumb of the left hand and rub lightly
with the second finger of the right hand across the
lines that form at this point. Care must be taken not
to massage too heavy to over-develop these muscles,
thus giving the face a stern appearance'. Now place
the thumb and finger of the left hand under the eye
at the bridge of the nose and at the outer corner^
stretching the skin lightly underneath the eye. The
massage is giy,ep with the second finger of the right
hand. Rub from the inner corner out in a half circular
movement a? shovyn in figure, Circular Movement.

Great care i?3ust be exercised in not massaging too
heavy at this ^oint as it is easy to discolor the eye,
giving it the ap|^earane,e of a bruise. This should ben,e-
.fit the dsifk circles a;t^d ;Cares\vOrn appearance, but ^ust

94 THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

not be overdone. This operates on the Orbicularis
Palpebrarum. Now place the finger of the left hand
above and below the outer corner of the eye and mas-
sage lightly across the lines commonly known as crow's
feet that form at this point. Now take your position

CIRCULAR ORBICULAR MOVEMENT.

behind the customer and rub over the entire face lightly
to remove all particles of cream that may have been
left on the face in rolls.

In case your subject is troubled with black heads,

THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 95

the cream while being rolled from the face will re-
move some of the small ones, but in the event of larger
ones appearing, it will be necessary to use the Comedo
Extractor.

Now apply another hot towel as formerly described,
repeating three or four times, allowing the fade to
steam from two to three minutes. Now is the time
to use the Comedo Extractor, but it must be remem-
bered that only a few must be removed in immediate
proximity to each other. You may take a small por-
tion of one side of the face and then a small portion

COMEDO EXTRACTOR.

of the other side, but in severe cases it may require
several treatments to remove them all. Draw the skin
.tight with the thumb and finger of the left hand over
the black heads to be removed and place the hole of
the Comedo Extractor over the black heads. If they
are too obstinate, it is not policy to irritate the face

96 THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

by too severe pressure, but wait for two or three treat-
ments, which will eventually remove them.

In case your subject is troubled with pimples, you
should be careful to ascertain what is their cause. In
case of systemic diseases, syphlitic diseases and gastro
intestinal, it is not policy to try to treat by this process,
although they may be benefitted by it. The pimples
that can be treated most successfully is one that will
be found with a small black head in the center and
contains pus, which is caused by the decomposition of
the black heads. If the contents can be removecf
easily, do so by pinching it lightly between the two
thumbs, being careful not to allow the nails to come
in contact with the open pimple. If it is not easily
removed, let it have another treatment. If removed,
apply Peroxide of Hydrogen with a small piece of
cotton, but do not allow the cotton to remain on any
length of time. If left too long, peroxide will destroy
the tissue and leave a small scar. This is used as an
antiseptic.

In all methods of massaging, whether or not pimples
or black heads appear, finish by anointing the face with
cold cream or skin food. After thoroughly rubbing it
into the skin, remove all that is possible to wipe ofif
with a clean, soft towel. In most instances it wili
be desired by your patient that you apply another hot

THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 97

towel and immediately after a cold one to close the
pores and harden the flesh. In first-class establish-
ments, a toilet water of some description is used, but
the massage may be given without. Thoroughly wipe
the face and apply a good wholesome powder as is
described in shaving.

It is advisable that a sifter top can is used in prefer-
ance to the lump magnesia or puff as there is not the
possibility of diseases being conveyed from one face to
another.

VIBRATORY.

The Vibratory Massage may be given in addition to
the finger manipulation or in connection with the elec-
tric massage if desired, but ordinarily only one style
is required at a time, although many customers vary
the treatments, having first one and then the other.
Where this method is desired without either of the
others, prepare your customers by applying the hot
towels as described in the manner of finger manipu-
llatu-ottii and after the face is thoroughly steamed, apply
a cream which is a sk'm food, not the rolling cream as
described with the fofmer movements.

This cream both cleanses and builds up tissues and
is driven into the face by the rapid vibrating movement

98 THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

of the instrument. After spreading the cream, apply
one hot towel in order to soften the cream, making it
easier to drive into the pores of the skin. As the face
cannot be thoroughly cleaned by the use of hot towels,
wipe the cream from the face with a clean, dry towel
and it will be seen that much dirt will be removed
even after the face has been well washed.

You may now apply cream again and you have the
customer ready for the instrument. If you are using
the style of machine to which the hand is attached in
place of the rubber cups, fasten the right hand on
securely by running the entire hand through the first
strap and the second and third finger through the
second strap. Buckle it tightly, so there will be no
lost motion between the hand and the instrument.
Place the machine on the opposite side of the chair
from which you are working, so that arm of instru-
ment will be at right angles with the hand, as shown
in illustration. Vibratory Hand Massage.

Start the machine in motion and begin the massage
on the forehead. Cross the lines, working from one
side of the forehead to the other. Place the fingers
on the face lightly, then pass over the same surface,
allowing the ends of the fingers to tap the face with
the rapid movement caused by the machine. Work
dowai over the cheeks in a rotary movement until the

THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

VIBRATORY HAND MASSAGE.

100 THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

entire side of the face is massaged. Work up over the
nose and very lightly underneath the eyes, gradnall)'
working across the chin to the other side of the face,
and massage both sides alike.

If you have a revolving chair so that it can be
adjusted, it will not be necessary to stop your machine
to operate on both sides of the face, but in case you
have an ordinary reclining chair which does not re-
volve, it will be necessary to massage one side, then
place the machine on the other side of the chair and
complete your work.

The Vibratory Massage should not be overdone. In
no instance should it be applied more than fifteen
minutes and usually not more than ten. This method
of massaging affords the customer a very pleasant
sensation, one that is difficult to describe, but when
once given will be much sought after. If the work
has been properly done, the cream will have been
absorbed by the face an-d it will be left with a healthy
glow. Judgmepit must be dis.pl;ayed in niiassagjng the
.different faces. If you have a skin that is very tender
and .easily irritated, yo,u must be particularly cautious
to make your stroke light. If you have a face that is
thin with hollow cheeks and needs building up, work
jn as much cream as is possible by applying if a secon<d
0r third time and allow your sitroke to be firm, bijil
ligM.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 101

Some study of the diagram will be necessary in order
to more intelligently understand what muscles to
develop. If lines form under the ears, you will see the
necessity of strengthening the muscles that hold that
part of the flesh in place and you should then work
on the back portion of the Masseter muscle.

If the massage is given to reduce the flesh, such as
the double chin, the stroke should be more vigorous,
always working from the lower part of the face up,
in order to bring back to the natural condition the
loose flabby skin.

ELECTRIC.

For this treatment, prepare your customer as before
with the hot towels and cream, thoroughly cleansing
the face before starting the operation. The electric
massage may be given by use of the roller and sponge
disc, which applies the electricity direct to the cus-
tomer, or through the operator by attaching the wrist
band to the massuer. If the sponge discs are preferred,
prepare your battery by attaching the cord to the post
marked "N" and the other end to the metal handle
which is placed in the customer's hand. To the post
marked "P" attach the other cord and to the other
end of the sponge disc, which must be thoroughly wet.
This is very essential as there would be no benefit of
the electric massage with a dry sponge.

102 THE BARBERS' MANUAL

Place your battery on the work stand in such a
manner that you will have free use of the cord to
which the sponge disc is attached. Take your position
at the side of the chair and proceed the same as with
the vibratory. This method is usually given for the
purpose of plumping the cheeks after the finger manipu-
lation. After having worked with .the disc in the
rotary movement on the cheeks, detach it and put in
its place the roller. Roll it lightly over the forehead,
up and down across the wrinkles and over the ex-
pression lines that form at the corners of the eye.
However, the most popular electric massage is given
by attaching the wrist band with the sponge electrode,
thoroughly wet, and fastened to the inside of the wrist
and proceed with the work the same as described in
the finger manipulation. This gives a soothing and
pleasant sensation, destroys germs of disease with
which it comes in contact and is considered by many
the most healthful and pleasant massage given. In
every case, where the electric massage is required, it
is necessary that the customer holds the metal handle.
Without this there would be no current and no benefits
from the electricity.

Many customers are able to stand a great deal more
electricity than others and you can guage the amount

THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 103

to be given by adjusting the shield at the right of the
battery made for this purpose.

If the instrument is used that manipulates the rubber
cup, proceed on the same Hues as laid down for the
hand massage, allowing the instrument to tap the face
lightly or heavier as the case may require. Experience
and practice will do much to teach you the harm or
benefit that results from this work. Where you find
that certain muscles are being over-developed, giving
the face a coarser appearance, work on lines that will
build up f^esh instead of muscles.

Many kinds of creams are used for this purpose,
but the formula given on the following pages are the
best that we have been able to ascertain and can be
manufactured in your own shop with little difficulty,
but in most cases they can be secured from the supply
houses at little additional cost, saving the trouble of
preparing them. The rolling cream as described for
the finger manipulation is not suitable for the vibra-
tory use and is not intended to build up tissue. It is
a substance made from milk chemically prepared and
one that requires a special machine to grind and whip
it to the proper consistency. This could not be manu-
factured successfully at home.

SCALP MASSAGE.

One essential requirement to a good head of hair is

104

THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

VIBKATORY CUP MASSAGE,

THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

105

VIBRATORY SCALP MASSAGE

good circulation. This can be brought about by finger
manipulation, vibratory massage or electricity^ and if

106 THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

you educate your customers to the benefits of this work,
you will reap a splendid revenue.

In giving the finger manipulation as well as the other
treatments it is best that you use a good tonic. Place
your customer in a chair in an upright position, the
same as for haircutting. Spread the hair cloth and
towels in the same manner as for a shampoo, apply
the tonic the same as wetting the hair preparatory for
combing and start your manipulation by taking the
position back of the customer, placing either hand at
the sides of the head and work upward in quick,
rotary movements, using the balls of the fingers and
thumb in such a manner that it will loosen the scalp
but will not pull the hair. Proceed clear around the
head, changing- your position as it is necessary to get
at the work. Now place the fingers on top of the head
to steady the hands, and with the balls of the thumbs
work the scalp in a rotary movement, going all over
the head from -the base of the brain up. About from
five to ten minutes should be consumed in manipu-
lation.

In using the Vibratory, you may apply the tonic or
not, as your customer desires. If you are using the
machine to which the hand is attached, start at the
right side of the head, with the machine in motion,
using the left hand to steady the head and work from

THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 107

the bottom of the scalp up, continuing clear around.
Always finish the work by a light massage at the base
of the brain to draw the blood to that part, thus avoid-
ing headache that may follow.

If the machine is used that operates the rubber cup,
follow the same principles and use the same precaution
not to overdo the work. A different attachment is
furnished with each machine for this purpose.

If the electric scalp massage is required, the only
ones that can be given successfully is through the
operator by use of the wrist band or the metal brush
which is furnished with each battery. This must be
used gently, but by it the electricity i? applied to the
roots of the hair, creating a better circulation than can
be had in any other way. The brush, of course, must
be attached the same as the roller or sponge disc and
the customer must hold the metal handle adjusted to
one cord from the instrument.

HEADACHE AND NEURALGIA MASSAGE.

A very beneficial article for the Masseur, although
partly varying from our instructions, is the following
from Margaret Palmer's "Lessons on Massage." The
treatment is intended for headache, neuralgia and like
ailments and may be used very successfully in the
barber shops, if handled precautiously.

108 THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

MASSAGE OF THE HEAD.

The operator stands in front, but rather to one side
of the patient, who is seated.

The head is steadied with one hand, the fingers of
the other hand are drawn together, and firm friction
is made over every part of the scalp. The pressure
must be sufficient to move the scalp thoroughly on the
skull ; this is sometimes difficult, owing to the tight and
matted condition of the scalp ; sometimes the scalp on
one side of the head is freely movable, and on the
other almost fixed. Friction may also be done with
the whole palmer surface of both hands working
together.

Mjuch relief is felt from these movements when the
head is tired and heavy. They are said also to pro-
mote the growth of the hair.

A very soothing movement, useful in nervous head-
aches and to promote sleep, is done with the cushions-
of all fingers of both hands, working slowly in circles
from occiput to forehead, without pressure ; the wrists
are raised. Circular movements on the crown of the
head are most soothing, as also are circular movements
around the mastoid process.

If used to induce sleep, the patient would probably
be in bed ; in this case the movement should begin at
the crown.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 109

THE FACE.

1. The thumb is placed on the supra-orbital notch
on the affected side, and the supra-orbital nerve is
pressed against the bone ; this frequently arrests the
pain. The course of the nerve upwards may be fol-
lowed with friction with the thumb.

2. Friction with the thumb from middle of fore-
head to temple, effleurage from temple to middle line,
following the course of veins. The tissue should be
all well moved about and then stretched.

When the pain is below the orbit, friction is done
from the angle of jaw to middle of the mouth, press-
ing on the maxillary bones.

All the muscles of the cheek kneaded with the thumb
and fingers, to be followed by circular effleurage with
palm of hand.

THE EYE.

1. The cushion of the thumb is placed on the closed
lid, pointing to the nose; by friction the lid is made
to work over the eyeball.

2. Stroking with the thumb from outer edge of
orbit to nose on upper and lower lid.

3. The lid picked up between the finger and thumb,
and moved up and down.

no THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

4. Friction on supra and infra orbital, and supra
and infra trochlear nerves, relieves pain in the eye.

5. Gentle pressure from outer angle of eye, inwards
to and dovv^n side of nose, relieves congestion and
swelling.

FACIAL PARALYSIS.

1. The muscles of the affected side of the face are
kneaded with thumb and finger.

2. Friction of forehead and side of head and corner
of mouth.

3. Circular movements around mouth and eye.

4. Vibrations with tips of fingers.

STIFF JAW.

1. Friction about the joint.

2. Petrissage of all muscles that move the joint.
Improvement may be tested from time to time by in-
sertion of bits of wood between the teeth. A Screw
gag is sometimes used.

Any of the instruments, creams or tonics can be had
at the MOLER BARBER SUPPLY HOUSE, 39 Peck
Court, Chicago, 111. A beautiful catalogue of these
goods is mailed free upon application.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL. HI

FORMULA FOR MOLER M'ASSAGE CREAM.

Almond Oil 4 ounces.

Spermaceti i ounce.

White Wax i ounce.

Benzoin 2 drops.

Oil of Rose I drop.

Heat almond oil, wax and spermaceti in double boiler
until melted, add benzoin and oil of rose while cooling,
and stir continually until thoroughly whitened.

FORMULA FOR MOLER HAIR TONIC.

(Dry scalp.)

Bay Rum i pint.

Witch Hazel i pint.

Alcohol I pint.

Glycerine 2 ozs.

Tinct. of Cantharides 2 ozs.

Ammonia ^ oz.

Mix all together and filter. For oily scalp, use i
oz. of glycerine instead of two. Peroxide of Hydrogen
can be secured at any drug store.

112 THE BARBERS' MANUAL.

TOILET WATER.

Essence violet 8 ozs.

Deodorized alcohol 7 pints

Rose water i pint

Mix and filter.

PRICES.

The prices in most establishments for this work
are as follows, but they can be varied according to the
conditions, the class of people to be operated on, etc.

Facial Massage (finger manipulation) 25c to 50c

Facial Mjassage (vibratory) 50c

Facial Massage (electric) 50c

Scalp Massage (all styles) 25c

BOOK II.

HAIRDRESSERS' MANICURING, FACIAL

MASSAGE, ELECTROLYSIS AND

CHIROPODY MANUAL.

Hairdressers^ ManuaL

'\.- '^*'4

REQUIREMENTS OF HAIRDRESSER.

In considering the idea of becoming a hairdresser, yoii

will naturally question yourself regarding requirements

necessary to insure success. First, the most important

of all, is, will you be careful and painstaking; are you

8 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

willing to wait upon others, catering to whims and
dictations, and at all times be patient and pleasant.

Aside from your real skill, which can be obtained
only by continual practice and careful instructions,
these are the principal requirements.

You must dress neatly, and if in the employment
of others, be prompt and punctual. This is not work
that requires any special adaptation, but, like other
work that is mechanical, it requires practice. It is not
true, as many believe, that you must be gifted with a
particular talent, as anyone with ordinary ability can
succeed if they have the patience to practice and if
given the opportunity such as our Colleges afford. It
has been demonstrated that the most awkward begin-
ners are often the most graceful graduates. Grace and
ease of motion are acquired by continued use of cer-
tain muscles.

Good taste has much to do with proper hairdress-
ing and selecting styles suitable to all conditions.
While it is true that some are more gifted than others,
at the beginning of the term, it does not necessarily
follow that they will be the most satisfactory grad-
uates.

The students who devote their undivided attention to
instructions, and examples provided for them, will in-
variably finish with the highest percentage. Careless-

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 9

ness has no place in the hairdressing parlor, and one
cannot hope to succeed, either in conducting an estab-
lishment, or in the employ of others, without solicitude
for the patrons* welfare.

FURNITURE AND ARRANGEMENT OF ESTABLISH-
MENTS.

A neatly arranged parlor cannot help but attract
attention, and has much to do with one's success in
conducting their own business. It does not always
require elaborate furniture or expensive outfits. An
establishment for two or three operators can be fur-
nished for $100, but to keep up with the latest styles
in furniture and apparatus, it will require consider-
able more. A well arranged parlor should contain
separate booths or apartments with a low screen, one
that will not affect the light, and in each apartment
should be a low dressing table with a mirror of suf-
ficient length for the customer to see herself while
seated in front of it, and for the hairdresser to see
the effect of her work as she progresses. A French
dressing stand is suitable for this purpose, or a mirror
placed on a shelf, from 2i/^ to 3 feet from floor, will
suffice.

Each booth should be provided with a gas iron
heater, attached to ordinary gas jet, in the center of the

10 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

room. Or, still better, a gas pipe running along the
wall in front of the number of booths required.

Ordinary comfortable seating chairs with low back
completes the furniture of each booth.

If you are so located that city water can be ob-
tained, the ordinary wash stand is sufficient for sham-
poo purposes, in addition to an instantaneous water
heater, as shown in the accompanying cut. This heater

must be attached to the water and to the gas, and can
be installed by any plumber or gas fitter, although few
carry an instrument of this kind in stock. In case you
do not want to go to this expense a five-gallon water
can, can be arranged on brackets above the wash
stand, suitable height to be out of the way. Under-

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

neath the can should be a gas, gasoline, or kerosene,
heater; the water should be given the proper tempera-
ture before using the spray. With this style of water
can the faucet must be at the bottom in order to get
the pressure of water to operate the spray. With the
instantaneous heater the temperature is governed by
a small lever that regulates the flow of gas and watei
at the same time.

HAIRDRYERS.

12 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

A hairdryer, if used, should be located convenient to
the wash stand, so that it will not be necessary to take
the customer any great distance while the hair is
wet.

There are many styles of hairdryers. One of the
most expensive is that in which the electric fan and
heater are arranged in a cabinet. With this the cur-
rent created by the fan is heated by the flame of gas
and tempered to suit the customer. Another style is
the one in which the gas heater is inclosed in a sheet
iron oven or tube placed in front of an electric fan
in such a manner as to blow the hot air through the
hair. Another style is the heater using gas only
without the electric fan, but this is not considered as
satisfactory, from the fact that hair should always
be fanned or rubbed while being dried.

If hairwork is part of the establishment, it is best
to have it arranged in a back room if good light can
be had; or in some apartment separate from the hair-
dressing proper. The instruments for the work are de-
scribed on the following page.

In manicuring — and it should be a part of your
work — a small table, similar to a sewing table, or one
made especially for the purpose, can be arranged at one
side of the room in such a manner that light will come
from over the operator's shoulder.

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

There are regular manicuring tables made with glass
top and ^vith drawers at the side for cream, powder and

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

all supplies necessary for the work. These are more
sanitary, as the tops can be kept perfectly clean, and
the articles used closed up in the drawers, free from
the dust of the room.

The Facial Massage, if part of the establishment,
should be in a booth similar to the hairdressing booth.
The chair for this purpose should be one that reclines
similar to the Morris chair, or those used in barber
shops. A small bracket with a drawer to hold cream.

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 15

powder, etc., can be attached to the wall in front of
chair, and on it placed a mirror similar to those used
in hairdressing parlors; or a small table with drawer
can be used in place of brackets.

The same room or booth can be used for electrolysis
or chiropody, if satisfactory light can be arranged; day-
light is best. If it cannot be had, artificial light, with
a shade, can be arranged close to the face or the foot
as the case may require.

No additional fixtures are required for electrolysis,
except the battery and medicine for doing the work.
For chiropody, a small foot tub is necessary and medi-
cine cabinet within reach of operator while seated on a
stool for the work.

Any of this furniture or fixtures described can be
had at Moler Supply House, 39 Peck Court, Chicago,
111.

One can keep pace with fashions in hairdressing as
they change by subscribing for any of the hairdress-
ing journals. The subscription price is usually $1.00
a year. The styles that are in vogue to-day are soon
out of date, and new ones taking their places. It there-
fore is as necessary after becoming adept at the work
to keep pace with styles, as it is to learn it properly in
the beginning. This is a profession in which one can
display rare taste and skill if studied carefully.

16 HAIRDRlilShJEKS' MANUAL.

Many ladies who do not care to go to the expense of
fitting up an establishment, create a residence trade.
By this method the hairdresser calls at the customer's
home by appointment, and is entitled to a better fee
than is usually asked in the hairdressing parlor. There
is probably no woriv that will pay better than resident
trade, when one is able to do manicuring and massage
in connection with hairdressing.

In the pages following every branch of the work, as
taught in our college, is taken up in detail, and while
it is not expected that you will become an expert
from the instructions that this book gives, you will
be greatly benefited by it.

SELECTION AND CARE OF TOOLS.
There is but one grade of tools used by professional
hairdressers. They are peculiarly adapted to the work,
and are entirely different from those used in private
use. They must be kept in proper order to do proper
work and by following instructions closely in this
line, it will save a great deal of annoyance in your
future work.

CURLING IRONS.
In selecting irons different sizes are needed. The
waving irons run in sizes from No. 1 to No. 5. The No,

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAIv. 17

4 is the ordinary or size that is most used. The pat-
tern known as the "Marcel" waver is the one most
used at present. Formerly the French waving- iron
took its place. For curling-, the irons run in sizes
same as the wavers, from No. 1 to No. 5, That used
for curling^ the short hair around the temples and
neck is No. 1 and that used for curling- long- hair is
No. 4. This is also used in waving-, crimping- and
curling" long- hair, as well as hair trimmed to be
curled all over. The size used for large curls to ap-
pear as natural curls is No. 5. A complete outfit con-

sists of one of each size in both wavers and curlers,
althoug^h a g-reat many hairdressers possess only
about half this many. In selecting the brands, only
the best French iron should be used as the cheaper
brands soon warp with the heat and do not giye
the hair the appearance of a natural, smooth curl.
In selecting, always get the smooth ones that close
tightly together from one end to the other. These
irons are all without the spring which is found in
irons used in priyate work. Great care should be

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL-

used in heating- the irons not to get them too hot, as
in overheating- they become roug^h and usually spring-
out of shape. Should be very careful when the iron
is hot, not to spring- it as when it cools it will not
close tig-htly. It should be kept in a perfectly dry
place to avoid rusting-. It is well to keep them
wrapped in a dry cloth or chamois skin. As they be-
come old and burned, they can be smoothed and re-
polished with sand paper.

HAIR BRUSHES.

The best brush that can be used for ladies' hair is
one known as the air cushion brush. The best g-rades
are those made of genuine bristle, and of course are

the most expensiye, although there is a similar wire
brush made of good quality as serviceable, and an-
swers the purpose almost as well. The air cushion
brush is different from the ordinary hair brush from
the fact that it is more pliable and elastic, which en-
ables one to brush snarls from long hair better than
the solid back brush.

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

COMBS.

Jht r.e-^

"REFORM*' Gorr^hjiisio.

The hard rubber comb is the one that has taken lead
among the hairdressers recently. It is one that is
strong and serviceable. The teeth are more easily
kept clean, on account of their pyramid shape. They
are almost unbreakable. These combs are made with
all coarse teeth, or with one-half coarse, and one-half
fine. Probably the latter is the best for all uses.

There is a horn comb with metal back much cheaper
and quite durable, but does not give the same satisfac-
tion. The aluminum comb, among the cheaper grades,
is probably the best^ from the fact that it can be
sterilized. The celluloid comb should never be used
in singeing the hair, as it is inflammable and danger-
ous.

Combs and brushes should be washed at regular in-
tervals, in 10 per cent, solution of carbolic acid or
formalin. The ordinary barber shears are the best
for trimming the hair.

hairderssers' manuai,.

An alcohol lamp is necessary to complete the outfit,
as in calls to private houses it would be the only
means of heating the iron. A small lamp, as shown
in cut, is best for this use, and should be heated by
alcohol in order to keep it from blacking- the iron and
making- it unfit for use.

WIGS AND SWITCHES.

A wig is not always necessary, but is very useful
in serving to show difi'erent or new styles of hair-
dressing. It is also very convenient to have for prac-
tice use, and can be used in practicing- new styles as
they are brought forth. A switch is very convenient
to have as in many styles of hair dressing- this is
necessary. It is the t>ame as a wig- which only adds
to your practice of new styles. Customers who wear
switches oftentimes ask for the styles that appear in
fashion plates, and by having one of these for j'our
practice use you will be ab'e to accomodate all.

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAI^.

FIRST WORK.
In beginning, first prepare by spread-

22 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAt.

ing- the hair cloth or apron over the person and pin
it closely around the neck to protect the dress. Then
take down the hair by removing all the hairpins and
allowing- the hair to hang- straight down the back.
A. chair of the ordinary height with low back should
be used so that the back will not interfere with the
hair while being dressed.

COMBING.

First, part the hair in the centre, then on the
sides dividing it in four parts. Comb each division
separately by holding the hair tightly close to the
head and beginning at the extreme ends of the hair
and working up as the snarls are removed.

In parting the hair, hold the comb between the
thumb and forefinger, drawing a straight line from
nearly the crown of the head to the back of the ear.
After the four divisions haye been combed out separ-
ately, then comb it altogether straight down the back,
which leaves it ready for crimping and dressing.

CRIMPING.

First, part the hair in the center from the fore-
head about half way back to the crown, and then
on the sides to the back of the ear.

These lines must vary according to the thicknessof

HAIRDRESSERS'' MANLAL,.

PARTING.

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

tnc nair or shape of the head. In thick hair, a small
proportion should be divided off, and in thinner the
part should be farther back. After this division is
made, another pari should be made from near the
back of the ear around the back of the head to the
other side, leaving^ the crown in a division by itself,
and should be twisted and pinned up out of the way.
The balance of the hair should be crimped, curled or
waved.
In all first-class establishments the irons are

GAS STVOE.

heated by gas heaters, a small stove or burner made
especially for this purpose.

The iron should be put on the burner three or four
minutes before ready for use. Hair should be parted
in small strands for crimping-, beginning- at the back

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

CRIMPING.

26 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

of the head near the crown and working- forward and
down until the side is finished. Curl both sides alike
and then the back; just enough hair must be divided
in each strand to fill the iron, making- a space of
about an inch square.

After the first strand is separated, take the iron
from the burner and test the temperature by closing
it on a piece of paper. If it does not scorch the paper
it will not burn the hair, but it must be made as hot
as possible and not burn.

If the iron is overheated, it can be brought to the
proper tempsrature by twirling- it in the hand until
cooled sufficiently for use. It should never be dipped
in water to cool, as it soon spoils the iron, in this
way, causing- it to rust. With little practice you will
be able to test the temperature by holding- it close to
the face.

Hold the iron closed in the right hand, pick up the
strand of hair divided for the curl in the left hand;
hold the iron about one inch from the head and be-
gin by winding the hair around the iron, starting
in the center of the iron and winding towards the
end until about one-half of the length of the strand
is crimped, then turn the iron down to the head,
crimping it close to the roots.

Hair should be wound around the iron from the
^ront to the back, and on the back of the head begin-

HAIBDRESSERS' MANUAL. 27

ning at the upper part aod work down, winding the
hair around the iron from the bottom up.

When through curling, unpin the straight hair, the
part that has been pinned up, comb it out, holding
the hair close to the head with the left hand and
combing it out with the right, beginning at the ends
of the hair and working toward the roots. After the
snarls are all taken out, comb the hair up and tie
it close to the roots with a string, letting the ends
hang down the back, then comb the crimps out at the
back of the head first by taking the comb in the right
hand close to the head, drawing it through the curls,
giving it a loose, wayy appearance; then comb out the
front, one side at a time; gather all of the crimped
hair up by bringing the back hair up with the left
hand and gathering the front in the right hand, let-
ting the ends fall between the thumb and the finger of
the left, then retie all of the hair together at the
crown of the head, leaving the crimped hair loose
enough to give a fluffy appearance.

Now you haye the hair ready to dress in any style
the customer wishes. The style that is used most at
present is put up by dividing the hair crossyvays of
the head, this leayes the hair divided into a top and
bottom part. Take the top part in a twist or coil
and pin it in place as shown.

28 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

This can be done up in a knot or pinned in coils
to suit the style your customer desires. The lower
half or part that you have left, twist in a coil hold-
ing- the ends of the hair with the rig-ht hand, take
the left near the centre of the strand, then bring- the
ends up to the head and turn the hair over to make
a loop.

Be sure that the ends of the hair come under the
loop, then make a second loop with the ends of the
hair at the side of the head finishing by pinning the
ends under the loops crossing them at the back of the
head or curl the ends and pin them down in the cen-
ter. This is the simplest style of dressing the hair
and after once learned the styles as they change are
easily followed. In pinning up the first or top coil-
let the ends of the hair remain on the left side of the
head, and in putting up the bottom coil, bring- the
ends to the right, and as you finish pinning the ends
of the hair, let them cross each other at the back
of the head, otherwise you would not haye sufficient
hair to pin to.

This completes a plain hair-dress without bangs.
This style of hair-dress can be used with a pompadour
roll or a rat. They are made of wire or hair, and
can be used on the front of the head, the sides or
back. They are used by putting them on the head
after the hair has been divided the same as it would

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

be for crimping-. When used on top, pin the roll on
each side and in the center, then comb the hair,
either crimped or straig-ht, over the roll, covering
it entirely and giving the hair the appearance of

PUI'FIXG.
pompadour, often called the pompadour roll. When
used on the sides, comb the hair over the roll at
each side and comb it back flat on top, allowing- the

:;0 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

hair to roll out oti each side only. It can be used in
che back the same way^

The hair can be dressed in puffs after it is crimped
instead of coils, which is done by dividing- the hair in
four or five strands, parting- it crosswise in as many
strands as you want puffs. Comb the back strand out
straig-ht, do not twist it in a coil as in dressing- the
former style. Hold the ends of the hair in the left
hand between the thumb and the fing-er. Place the
forefinger of the right hand about an inch from the
left and then bring the end of the hair oyer the right
finger and roll the strand up by bringing one finger
over the other inside of the little loop you have
formed. When rolled to the head, hold it there in
a puff with the forefinger of the left hand and spread
it with the right hand, pinning the side of the puff
close to the nead. Then remove the fingei of the
left hand and pin that side the same, then so on
with the next one until all the puffs are made, one
after the other. To avoid having the puffs drop
away from each other, put an invisible hairpin in
the center of the puff, pinning them together. The
best way to follow new styles is to watch the fashion
plates that come out with the Hairdressing Journal,
ard practice them on a wig before trying them on
your customer.

HAIRDRESSERS' MxiNUAL. 31

HIGH HAIRDRESS— FRENCH DOUBLE DIP.

In this style, tie the hair after parting and curling,
same as in the former styles, except that it should be
tied as high as the hair will allow. Begin by putting

TIEING.

up the front, standing on the right side of the customer,
putting up the left dip first.

The dip is made by first roughing the h?ir with the
comb, which is accomplished by sliding the comb back-

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

ward through the hair toward the roots. Great care
must be taken not to allow the teeth of the comb to
extend through the under portion. After roughing.,
smooth the under side by combing toward the ends.

ROUGHING.

In making the dip, first twist the ends of the hair
to the right with the left hand, keeping the first and
second finger of the right hand about an ii;ch from the
roots of the hair and draw the entire coil over the

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

finger, making a puff as shown in the cut. In draw-
ing the finger from underneath the dip spread the hair
into a roll.

FORMING DIPS.

The second dip is accomplished in the same way as
the first. In dressing the sides, divide the hair cross-
wise into two parts, bringing the upper half straight
up and pin at the crown and then take the remaining
half and pin over the other, excepting that it is pinned

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

a little farther back. Both sides are dressed alike.
The back of the hair is now ready to be dressed.

Part the hair crosswise and rough the upper half the
same as the front dip, and twist from left to right in
a coil, leaving the rough portion inside the coil. This

HIGH FRENCH KNOT.

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

will leave the coil loose and fluffy, with a smooth ex-
terior. Twist into a long coiffure by taking the right
hand with the palm up underneath the coil and turn
it, leaving the back of the hand up. Pin in place,
leaving the high French knot. The remainder portion
of this strand is puffed as shown in former cut (puf-
fing), and pin in place at the side of the coiffure.

Now, take the remainder of the hair, twist into a
coil and make a half knot by holding the coil with the

BOW KNOT.

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

FRONT VIEW — COMPLETED.

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

BACK VIEW — COMPLETEDo

38 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

right hand a little way from the head, and taking the
first finger of the right hand with the palm of the
hand up and form a loop by turning the hand over,
leaving the next strand around the first finger, then
bring the strand over and draw upward through the
loop so that it forms a bow knot, and pin down, mak-
ing the form of a three-leaf clover.

Ornaments should be worn on the left side.
SIDE DIP— LOW HAIRDRESS.

The front of this is put up the same as in the former
style except that one dip is made instead of two and
placed a little to the left. Tie back hair up as in the
former style except have it a little below the crown.
The hair is now ready to be dressed. Divide it into
two parts by parting crosswise. First, twist into a roll
and make a half figure 8 by holding the ends of the
hair with the left hand. Take the first finger of the
right hand underneath the roll, making a loop by turn-
ing the right hand over with the first finger still in
the knot. Then bring the strand around the knot with
the left hand, forming a puff. Then pin in place and
make a puff with the ends of the hair, making the I.t^^.
puff at the side of the first one as shown.

This puff is made different from the former ones, um
the remaining ends are long and thin. Hold the ends

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

HALF FIGURE EIGHT.

of the hair with the right hand and wind it around the
first three fingers of the left hand, flatly rolling up
the balance of the strand to the head and pin in place
at the side of the coiffure. Twist the remaining portion

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

PUFF NO. 2.

of the hair to the right tightly, and when doubled
back it will form a half figure eight. Leave it long
enough so that it comes about two inches below the
roots of the lower hair. Pin in place. Twist the
balance of the strand tightly to the right and place
crosswise of the head into whole figure eight. Tuck the
remaining short ends underneath and pin in place.

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 41

BACK VIEW — COMPLETEc

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

MARCEL WAVE.

This style of waving takes the place of crimping and
can be used with any style of hairdress. It must be
done with a particular style of iron, called the Marcel
Iron. \Vlien properly done the hair remains waved
longer and has the appearance of a naturally wavy
head of hair.

Before commencing, iLhampoo the hair and dry well.
Begin waving the hair on the right hand side. Take
a strand, not too thick, and make the first wave just
above the ear. To obtain the first wave, the strand
of hair must be held by the left hand. Irons should
be held perpendicularly, as shown in cut, in the right

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

hand and the hair should be pressed with them with
a slightly upward movement. The second wave is
obtained by sliding the irons a little farther along the
strand of hair, then pressing them with a slightly
downward movement. This operation should be con-
tinued right along to the end of the strand.

The first strand having been properly waved in its

full length, a small part of it should be taken and
joined to the next in order to show exactly where the
irons are to be placed along this second strand, so
that when the hair is waved all over and nicely
combed all the waves will fall properly into each
other.
K The right side being entirely finished, the left should

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

be proceeded with. The position in which the irons
must be held should be carefully noted and care must
be taken to always keep the hollow groove in the irons
on the top. Proceed in the same way, taking up a
small part of the first wave strand, in order to properly
indicate the places where the second strand should be
waved.

The sides being waved, continue with the strand at
the top of the head, taking a small part of the waved
lock from the right side as an indication as to where
the waves are to be made.

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

In oiuer to wave the nape of the neck, the head
should be bent slightly forward, and the strand already
finished fixed up on the top. The little locks at the

nape of the neck should then be held with the left
hand and waved with the right as previously shown.

Ladies can easily keep the waves from disappearing
by touching them up with the irons, even when the
hair is dressed.

46 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAl,.

TRIMMING.

Many styles of bang's are worn at different times,
andthe form of trim ming-, like dressing-, can be learned
from the fashion plates. The bang- worn on the top
and sides is made by parting" the hair crosswise from
the top of one ear to the other. If the hair is parted in
the center, comb each side down; then take up a
small lock, beg-inning at the top or the part, and cut
it off the proper leng-th, usually from two to three
inches, depending- entirely upon the shape of the
forehead ; then pick up the next lock under-
neath, cut the same length, but be careful and hold
the hair down when cutting- instead of straight up,
and so on until all the bangs are trimmed the proper
length. Be careful to get each side alike. Comb the
short hair forward over the forehead and cut in a V
shape, a bout even with the eyebrows. Then comb the
sides out, holding it between the thumb and finger of
the left hand, cutting it even, making it gradually
shorter close to the ear, then comb it straight and
trim the lower edge nearly to the bottom of the ear.
Other styles can be trimmed in the same way, follow-
ing new fashion plates.

In case the hair is to be cut all over, it must be
trimmed the same as a barber shingles hair, and foi-

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 47

low the same line of instructions as given in our
Barbers' Manual, except that the neck is never shaved.
Be very cautious and not get the lower part of the
hair trimmed close to the head, as it must be left long-
enough to curl. This is the only difference in trim-
ming short hair for ladies and men.

SHAMPOOING.

Comb the hair out the same as in dressing it to pre-
pare it for shampoo. There are a great many sub-
stances used in giving a shampoo. The kind most
fayored by hair dressers is the liquid, a formula of
which is given in the back part of the book. This is
applied by using the regular barbers' bottle, so made
that you may hold it by the neck and apply the sham-
poo as wanted. Hold the bottle in the left hand, pour
on a small portion at a time and rub with the right.
This will form a lather, and a sufficient amount must
be used to thoroughly wet or suds the hair. Start
on the top and work the suds down to the sides,
being careful not to let the lather get into the custo-
mer's eyes or on the face. Then gather the long
hair up from the back of the head in the right hand
and apply the shampoo with the left until the hair
Is thoroughly lathered to the ends. Then set the
bottle down, hold the long hair up oyer the head

4^ HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

without allowing- it to tang-le and rub the roots of the
hair with the risrht. Never rub the long- hair in such

SHAMPOOING.

a way to tangle it. After the scalp has been
thoroughly cleaned and rubbed, your customer is

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 49

ready for the rinsing. In preparing your customer
you should be very cautious in putting the towel
around the back of the neck to protect the dress.

Where you have a hot and cold water apparatus,
see that the water is perfectly temperatured betore
gettingyourcustomer under the spray. In preparing
the wash stand, lay a towel on the stand that the
customers may rest their elbows on it in leaning over
the bowl. A stool of the proper height is most con-
venier*^ ^^or your customer to sit on while the hair is
being ruioed. After the wash stand is prepared, take
your customer to the stand and have the head bent
over far enough so that the water will not run down
the neck while being applied. Take the spray in the
left hand, and as the water is turned on, be careful
that it is not allowed to wet the collar of the dress.
Turn the hair down over the head at the top and
begin rinsing at the roots. First thoroughly cleanse
the scalp and use sufficient water to get the soap
all out. Work carefully down to the ends of the hair
without tangling it. The greatest miiitake is in not
using sufficient amount of water to thoroughly cleanse
it, which will cause it to be sticky in drying.

After the hair is thoroughly rinsed, wring as much
water out of it as possible, and dry it enough so that
the water will not run down the neck or over the
eyes when the customer raises up from the bowl.

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

In taking- the customer back to the chair, hold the
hair on the top of the head with a towel placed over
the hair in such a way as to protect the face and
clothing.

DRYING.
Beg-in the drying- by letting the hair fall down over
the back and thoroughly rubbing the scalp with a

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 51

;.oweJ antjl partly dried, and complete by fanning- or
laying- it over 'ihe electric or gas hair dryer.Hair dryers
are objected, to by a great many customers, and in
this ca.s<i the hair skould be fanned with the left
hand, and at the same time rub the head with the
rig-ht, allowing the hair to pass through it. ,

Hair dried without rubbing is more harsh and stiff
than if it is rubbed well while being- dried. In
medium hair the drying usually requires from twenty
minutes to a half hour.

After the hair is thoroughly dried, it is well to
brush it until it becomes soft and g-lossy, then it is
ready for combing- and dressing- Hair immediately
after being shampooed is harder to handle than be-
fore.

There are many different kinds of shampoo, such
as the eg-g- shampoo, which is done the same as with
soap except that the substance is prepared by using-
eg-g-s well beaten, same as g-iyen in the formula in
the back of the book.

A dry shampoo is usually g-iven by washing- the hair
thoroughly in alcohol and rubbing until dried or
evaporated. No water is used for this style of sham-
poo.

Where the customer prefers their hair to be washed
with certain brands of soap use the soap in the
left hand and the water bottle in the right, and apply

53 HAIRDRESSER,^' MANUAI^.

water and rub the soap on the head until sufficient
lather is obtained.

Many times a tonic is required after the sham-
poo. Apply it after the hair has been partly dried,
then finish drying- the hair so that the tonic as well
as dampness may be evaporated.

Sea foam cannot be used in ladies* work, unless
washed out the same as shampoo.

SINGEilNG.

This process of burning- the ends of the hair is for
the purpose of keeping^ it from splitting at the ends
and is recommended for falling- hair. When it be-
comes dead or dry, it splits and spoils the growth.
By burning the ends, it closes the pores and keeps the
fluid in the hair and gives it a livelier and healthier
appearance. It often stops hair from falling- out and
is one of the best means to invigorate dull or dead
hair.

Singeing is done with a wax taper made especially
for the purpose or by an alcohol burner that allows a
small flame to peep through a perforated surface.
Wax tapers are usually recommended and can be ob-
tained at any wholesale house or you may use the
ordinary gas lighting taper.

The hair is taken down and combed out, the same
as preparing it for a shampoo. Take a small strand

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL 53

sepaio-Lt^lv and twist it firmly in order to compel the
short ends of the hair to spring- out from the coil
also to prevent from catchinf,^ fire as the sing-er is
passed over the hair to catch the protruding- ends.
Hair is often trimmed in this way, but in trimming

SINGEING.

't does not prevent the hair from re-splitting- as in
singeing. Continue clear around the head until all
the ends have been touched. When hair is uneven
at the ends, it can be trimmed with the shears or
singed evenly by combing the hair straig-ht down the

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

back and touching- the long- ends with the sing-er or
shears.

After sing-eing- hair should be well brushed in order
to brush the burnt ends off and avoid the appearance
of singed hair.

CI,IPPING.

Where a head is to be sing-ed and shampooed both,
always shampoo first as it remoyes the oil from the
hair, makes it lighter and easier to get at with the
singer.

HAIBDRESSERS' MANUAL. 55

BLEACHING.

In bleaching-, remember that the hair must be thor-
cug^hly shampooed and dried as the bleach will not
take effect on oily hair.

Comb the hair out the same as preparing- it for
dressing-, part it in the center as far back as the
crown and begin by applying- the bleach with a tooth
brush at the roots of the hair along- the part. Then
divide the hair off in strands and apply the bleach
until the roots of the hair haye been thoroughly
dampened. Rub the bleach in at the roots and be
careful that no hair is missed. Apply the bleach
with a tooth brush as far down on the strand as is
necessary, the balance or the ends of the hair can
be dipped into the bowl of bleach.

Bleach is not injurious to the scalp and should be
applied to the roots of the hair, although it is not
well to soak it as you would with a sponge. The
material is quite expensive and should be used spar-
ingly. In dipping the ends of the hair in the bowl,
wring them out carefully to prevent its dripping as
the bleach removes the color from anything- it touch-
es. In case the ends cannot be wrung out to prevent
them dripping, bring- the ends up over the top of the
head and rub them thoroughly among- the roots of
the hair.

S6 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

Peroxide of Hydrog-en is about the only material
used for this purpose. More than one application is
usually necessary, although this depends entirely on
what shade the customer wants her hair. Each ap-
plication lightens it to a certain degree. Black hair
is bleached much easier than the lighter shades.

DYEING.

There are a great many kinds of dyes used in ladies
work. Probably the most to be recommended at
present is the kind where one application will do the
work. In using this sort of a dye, you must select
the shade you want, and after being applied it re-
quires time in the air and sun light to bring" it to the
proper shade. Other kinds of dye are applied by
using two ingredients usually called No. 1 and No 2,
or A and B. This is instantaneous and comes in seven
different shades.

In dyeing, first shampoo the hair and see that it is
thoroughly cleaned and dried the same as in bleach-
ing, then apply the first ingredient or No. 1 with a
tooth brush the same as bleach, only being careful
to keep it from the scalp as it colors anything it
touches. Apply it the same as bleach, and as soon as
No. 1 is on and dried, apply No. 2 in the same way.
No. 2 is the one that colors. In applying both ingre-

HAIEi)i^ESSERS' MANUAL. 57

dients, the hair should be thoroughly rubbed and wet
with the tooth brush, being- careful that none of it
escapes. The ends of the hair cannot be dipped the
same as in bleaching, and roust be applied to the
ends the same as the roots. This is the most tedious
part of ladies' hairdressing, and the prices for this
work are according to the amount of material you
have used and the work you have done.

In using other dyes such as Buckingham's and all
brands that use only the one ingredient, apply it the
same as No. 1 in the former explanation.

There are other dyes that are to be applied with a
fine comb. As directions are g^iven with all dyes to
be used, it is only necessary to follow direetions in
applying it. Different formulas for dyes are given in
the back of the book, and can be obtained at any drug
store.

Hair can be crimped and dressed as soon as the
dye is thoroughly dried, but twenty-four hours after
it is applied, it must be shampooed as some kinds of
dye leave the hair sticky.

In shampooing it do hot use shampoo paste or
strong soap. First prepare a suds with warm water
and some mild brand of soap. Take the customer to
the wash stand and have the suds poured over the
head and rubbed lightly before using the spray in
order to remove the superfluous dye from the hair.

5S HAIKDRESSEKS' MANUAL.

SCALP MASSAGE.

Finger Manipulation, Vibratory and Electric.

Scalp Massage is a part of hairdressing and taught
in the same course. It is a treatment for diseased or
unhealthy scalp, as well as to prevent falling hair,
dandruff and other diseases.

The unhealthy scalp, as a rule, has poor circulation
and has usually grown tight to the head. Finger Manip-
ulation is for the purpose of loosening and creating a cir-
culation, and is assisted by vibratory or electric bat-
tery.

Tonics are essential as well as massage in this work,
and the formulas on the following pages are the best
we have found for this purpose. There is no positive
cure for bald head, but they have some time been
benefited by massage, which should be given imme-
diately after the shampoo.

THE FIRST WORK.
Part the hair from front to back, beginning
at the top, apply the tonic with a small sponge
or small bits of cotton, soaked in the tonic, so
that it will thoroughly moisten the scalp. In case
you use the sponge, thoroughly cleanse it after using
it on each customer, by rinsing it in 10 per cent, solu-
tion carbolic acid or formalin.

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 59

Pour the tonic in a saucer or similar receptacle, take
the sponge or cotton in right hand, steady the head
with the left hand, apply the tonic to scalp where the
hair is parted. Continue by parting the hair about
one inch below the first part, starting on the right side,
working clear around the head to the left. Each part
should be about one inch below the previous one. The
object being to apply the tonic only to the roots and
not to the hair itself.

After the scalp is well saturated, begin the massage
with the shuttle movement. Massage with balls of
the fingers, and not with the finger nails. The object
is to loosen the scalp by moving the fingers back and
forth, allowing the movement of one hand to work
opposite to the other. Continue by working up to
the top of the scalp, always standing behind the cus-
tomer.

The next movement is to place the balls of the
fingers of the left hand on top of the scalp, and with
the right manipulate from back of neck to crown,
keeping the fingers about one inch apart. Press firmly,
so that the fingers will have the tendency to loosen the
scalp without pulling the hair. After treating the
entire scalp in this manner continue with the hands, as
fivsf described, using a rotary movement.

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

In case the tonic is not to be used, proceed with
massage movements as directed. The vibrator massage
can be used in place of finger manipulation, or in
addition to finger manipulation, as follows:

VIBRATORY MASSAGE.
The Vibratory Massage is not an electric appliance, as
is generally supposed. The movement of the apparatus
is attained by use of electric motor, but no electricity
is applied to the scalp. The movement is a short
vibrating action so rapid that in itself it is a pleasant
sensation and leaves a very pleasant feeling to the

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 61

scalp. This apparatus can only be used where electric
or water power is obtainable.

The ordinary flexible shaft vibrators cannot be used
to advantage in scalp massage, where the hair is long,
as the rapidly moving mechanism is liable to get fast
in the hair, but the vibrator used by our system gives
a natural vibratory hand massage and is applied by
attaching the hand to instrument in place of rubber
cup. Instructions for operating the apparatus are
shown in the following pages.

After the right hand has been attached to the in-
strument and thrown in motion, steady the head by
placing the left hand on top of the scalp, and with
the right hand in motion from the vibration of ma-
chine place the tips of fingers on the scalp firmly enough
to keep them from tapping, work from bottom up, con-
tinuing clear arourd the head. This is especially good
for headaches, neuralgia and like ailments. More work
can be accomplished in one minute with the vibrator
than in twenty minutes with ordinary finger manipula-
tion. Never give more than five minutes of this
treatment at one time, but it should be given at least
once a week to keep the scalp stimulated and in a
healthy condition.

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

ELECTRIC SCALP MASSAGE.
In many cases electric treatment for the scalp is pre-
ferred to other methods, and it may be given, in addi-
tion to finger manipulation. The faradic current is
used for this purpose. Full instructions for the use
of this battery is given on the following pages.

There are different ways of applying electricity to
the scalp. Allow your customer to choose the method
preferred, but if the operator is allowed to use her
method, select the most beneficial for the case. If to
be used in connection with the finger manipulation first

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 63

attach the wrist electrode to wrist of right arm, have
the customer hold the metallic handle attached to the
battery, proceed as in the first instruction in finger
manipulation. This applies a mild, soothing current
through the operator. The connection is only formed
while the fingers are on the scalp.

If brush is preferred in place of wrist electrode, the
brush instead of wrist band is attached to the cord,
and the hair thoroughly brushed, being careful to keep
to the roots of the hair. The brush should follow the
finger manipulations.

64 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

SHAMPOO LIQUID.

Bay rum 3.qts.

Tr. Cantharides Yz oz.

Carbonated amtnonia Yz 02.

Sal Tartar 1 oz.

After using, cleanse the hair with clear water.

IDEAL HAIR DRiiSSING.

Lanoline 4 ozs.

Rosewater 1 oz.

Lard, prep 1 oz.

Oil rose 10 drops.

• HAIR DYE.
NO. 1.

Gallic acid 20 grs.

Alcohol 5 drs.

Water 2 drs.

NO. 2.

Silyer nitrate 1 dr.

Ammonia 3 drs.

Gum arable 30 drs.

Water 6 drs.

Dissolve the silver nitrate in the ammonia and the
gum arabic in the water, then mix.

HAIR BIvEACH.

Peroxide of Hydrogen can be secured at any drug

store ,

HAIR DYE.
Nitrate of silver 20 grs.

Sulphite of copper 2 grs.

Ammonia Q. S.

Distilled Water ■ Q. S.

Dissolve the salts in ^ oz. water and add ammonia
until the precipitate which is formed is redissolyed.
Then make up to 1 oz. with water. Apply to the hair
with old tooth or nail brush. This solution slowly
gives a brown shade. For darker shades apply a
second solution composed of —

Yellow sulphide ammonia 2 drs.

Solution of ammonia 1 dr.

Distilled water 1 oz.

COLD CREAM.

Vaseline 14 ozs.

Paraffin 1 oz.

Eanoline 4 ozs.

Water 6 ozs.

Attar of Roses 5 drops.

Vanilin 4 grs.

Rect. spirits 2 drs.

MOLER HAIR TONIC.

Bay Rum 1 qt.

Witch Hazel 1 qt.

Glycerine 4 oz.

Tr. Cantharides 1 oz.

Ammonia 14 oz.

Rose Water 1 pt.

66 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

PRICES FOR HAIRDRESSING.

The average prices for hairdressing in iirst-class
establishments range about as follows, although the
price is usually double where the hairdresser makes
priyate calls:

Hairdressing, plain $ 50

Hairdressing, fancy 75c to 1 00

Trimming top bangs 15

Trimming top and side bangs 25

Trimming and curling top bangs 25

Trimming and curling top and side bangs 35

Shampooing, medium length 50

Shampooing, heavy hair 75c to 1 00

Shampooing' short hair 25

Trimming short hair all over 25

Trimming and curling short hair all over 50

Singeing short hair all over 25

Singeing long hair 50

Bleaching medium length,each application 50

Bleaching long hair, each application. .... 1 00

Dyeing short hair all over 2 00

Dyeing medium length 5 00

Dyeing long hair $ 5 00 to 10 00

Dyeing heavy gray hair ^10 00 to 15 00

Scalp massage 50

Scalp massage, electric 75

Scalp massage, vibratory 1 00

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

HAIR WORK.
Hair work is the art of making hairgoods, switches,
etc. It is not really a part of the hairdressing, but is
very essential in connection with this work. Few
hairdressing parlors are established without this one
important branch. The work can usually be done during
the hours one is not steadily engaged at the hairdress-
ing chair, and is one that yields a good profit. In
the pages following, will be shown the instruments neces-
sary for doing the work, and a complete course of in-
structions on the manufacturing of everything in the
hairgoods line, except wigs, which is a separate trade
in itself, and in taking up hairwork it is not neces-
sary.

In nearly every hairdressing parlor ladies bring their
combings to be made into switches, bangs, pompadour
rolls and other articles of false hair. Orders for these
goods can be sent to the wholesale house, to be made
up at fairly good profit, but by being able to do this
work one can utilize time that would otherwise be
wasted.

SELECTION AND CARE OF TOOLS.
The hackle is the first instrument used, and is for
the purpose of straightening tangled hair, or combings.
It is made in two sizes. No. i and No. 2. In large

HAiRDRESSERS* MANUAL.

establishments, where a great deal of work is being
done, No. 2 would be the best size to select.

The hackle is fastened to work stands or table by
means of screws at each end, and should be so fastened
that it can be easily taken off to be cleaned, as in the
work of straightening the hair it becomes filled with
dust and short hairs.

The short tufts of hair that become tangled in the
teeth should be picked out with a hairpin or any smalJ
instrument that will work well through the teeth, and
after removing it from the work stand can be thor
oughly scrubbed. There is no difference in length of
teeth or distance apart in the two sizes. The dif-
ference is in the number of teeth each contains.

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 69

THE NEEDLE ROOTER.
The needle rooter is for the purpose of separating
the long hair from the short after it has been straight-
ened in the hackle. It comes in two sizes, of one and
two rows of needles. The double row is best for estab-
lishments and for knitting, but the smaller one will
answer the purpose for ordinary use. It is also fastened
to table or work stand by screws and can be cleaned in
the same manner, as the hackle, although it will not
need it as frequently, as the hair is in better condition
when it is ready for this instrument.

It is generally supposed that the rooter is for the.
purpose of arranging the roots of the hair all at the
one end, but this is impossible in working with comb-
ings, but it must be used to arrange the ends of the
hair evenly.

WEAVING CARD.

Weaving cards come in pairs of the same size and
arranged with teeth of wires very short and closely
woven together, and are used by the operator for keep-
ing the hair straight while manufacturing. In weav-
ing it will be pulled from between the cards as it is
needed, the remainder being kept intact by the short
wires or teeth.

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

The teeth are all bent in one direction, and the hair
to be pulled in opposite direction; this prevents it
from tangling between the cards. It is used in weav-
ing, ventilating or in manufacture of all hair goods.
These can be kept clean by combing out with the ordi-

nary comb, lliis will be necessar3% as frequently as the
shade of hair is changed. The foundation or card in
itself is of heavy leather, in which the teeth are in-
serted and fastened.

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

WEAVING STICKS.

The weaving sticks, or looms, are so made that they
may be fastened to a table or stand, by wooden set
screws, and are easily detached or adjusted. If fastened
to the table it must be of sufficient length to allow the
operator to weave on the threads that run from one
to the other.

Weaving sticks are made both of metal and wood
and others are made of part metal and part wood.
The latest kind is that on wKich the spools of thread
are fastened with thumb screw, saving the trouble of
rewinding the thread on the spool, as is necessary
with the old-style weaving loom. Another advantage in
this kind of loom is that they never slip or loosen the
thread, as does the old style. The wooden looms should
be kept in a dry place, so that the dampness cannot
affect them and render them useless after having
dried out. No care will be necessary otherwise.

NEEDLE CARD.

72 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

Needle cards are not an actual necessity. They are
only used to keep the hair straight. They are made
only in one size and consist of two parts; the lower
part, in which the hair is laid, is similar to the hackle,
inasmuch as the appearance of needles are concerned.
The upper part is to be placed over lower to hold the
hair in place.

MOUNTING MACHTST:.
The mounting machine is for mounting "switches and

curls. It is to be attached to a table by means of a

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

•3

thumb screw. It is easily taken off and aduated. Turn-
ing the crank, the cord is made to revolve as the
switch is mounted. It is made entirely of iron and
needs no care except that it should be kept free from
rust and oiled as often as required.

THE VENTILATING BLOCK.
The Ventilating Block, or wig block, is made of wood.
in the shape of the skull. It is an article on which the
ventilating net is attached. It is also used for dress-
ing wigs to illustrate fancy styles. The more ex-
pensive blocks are hard wood, and should be well sea-
soned to prevent splitting. The less expensive ones are
softer material and will answer the purpose for ordi-
nary use. There are also some made of papier mache.
porcelain and glass, but the wood are the only suitable
ones for ventilating.

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

ADJUSTABLE BLOQv HOLDER.
The Block Holder is the instrument to which the
block should be attached in ventilating. It is not as
essential as some of the other instruments in manufac-
ture of hair goods, as the block can be held in the lap,
but will be found a great convenience. It is so con-
structed that the mounted block can be adjusted to any
position. It is made entirely of iron and very durable.^
It can be fastened to table or stand same as mounting
machine.

KAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

PRESSING IRON.

A pressing iron is a very convenient instrument to
have for the purpose of pressing switches, but is not
considered a necessity. This completes the outfit. Any
of these instruments can be had at the Moler Supply
Houfe, 39 Peck Court, Chicago, 111.

MANUFACTURING SWITCHES.

First Work: Hackling Combings.
If the switch is to be made of combings, the hair
must be first picked apart in order to prepare it for
the hackle, as it cannot be hackled in the condition
combings are usually delivered to the hairdresser. This
is essential, as the hair would be broken in short ends
if it were to be hackled without first being picked apart
in a loose condition. After the hair has all been picked
apart, take a small amount in the hands and draw it
out to the ends of the hair to get it as straight
as possible. Take a small quantity at a time.

The hair at first must T)e arawn lightly over the
hackle, not allowing it to take up more than one-
third of the length of the teeth. If it were to be

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

drawn entirely through the hackle, it would require so
much force that the hair would be broken into short
lengths. After you have the hair straightened as much
as possible, place it in the rooter, to be held for fur-
ther treatment. Continue until you have the desireri
amount straightened.

Remove all of the hair from the rooter in a body and
draw it through the hackle again, being very careful
to hold the ends tightly to prevent part of it draw-
ing out of the hands and tangling in the teeth of the
hackle. Draw through as many times as necessary
to have it perfectly straight. Now you have the hail
prepared for the rooter. Take about half the amount
of hair necessary for the ordinary switch (bdng care-

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 77

ful not to tangle the hair); hold it in the left hand at
about the center of the strand, and with the right
hand, place the longer ends in the rooter and draw the
strands of shorter hair from the longer ones. Continue
in this manner, changing ends with the strand until
you have all of the longer ones separated from the
short. Remove the strands you have in the rooter to
keep them separate from the short lengths, as this
will be necessary for the outer covering of the switch.
It will not be necessary to root the balance of tlie
strand, as after the longer ones are separated, th3
shorter ones will be even enough for use. In the ordi-
nary combings, there will be about one-eighth of the
entire amount, long hair. This is to be placed in thg
weaving cards, separate from the shorter lengths, and is
to be woven first in the outer strands with one-third
of the amount of short hair that you have for the
entire switch. The remainder of the hair is to be
placed in the needle cards to be kept straight while
manufacturing the first strand.

Place the weaving sticks about a yard apart on a
table of convenient height, or work stand for the pur-
pose. Three spools of thread will be required on the
holders intended for them on the loom at the right.

Take the three ends from the spools, unwind them
to a sufficient length to reach the weaving stick on the

78 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

other side, being careful not to twist or tangle the
threads. Tie the three ends together and attach them
to the weaving stick at the left, so that they can be
drawn tight. Tighten each one separately by turning
the spool and fasten the same with the thumb screw
for this purpose. Now, thoroughly wax your threads
with ordinary beeswax and rub them well with a
cloth. This is to strengthen the threads and enable the
hair to slip to its place at the end of the strand.

Weaving.
Now you are ready for weaving. Beginning with the
long hair, pull a small strand from the weaving cards,
taking those from the very ends. Take an amount, that
if rolled tightly would be about the size of a No. 20
thread. This is for the covering of the first strand.
The covering is Avoven in a double weft. In drawing
the strand from the weaving cards, draw it part way
out with the thumb and finger of the right hand, wind
the strand around the second finger of the left hand,
leaving about two inches of the end protruding. Be care-
ful to hold the strand tightly with the third and lit-
tle finger, and with the finger and thumb. Begin by
holding the strand with the thumb and finger back of
the lower thread, drawing the top of the strand through
with the thumb and the finger of the right hand, roll

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 79

ing the strand as it is drawn in place, keeping the hair
together. Bring it over the two threads and with tlie
thumb and finger of the left hand, hold it in place and
draw it through between the top and second thread.
Now, bring the ends under the three threads with tne
thumb and finger of the right hand, hold it in place
with the finger of the left hand, draw it between the
top and center thread, carry it over the top thread with
the thumb and finger of the right hand. Push the
strand between the top and center thread with the
finger of the left hand, grasp it with the thumb and
finger of the right hand and carry it underneath the
lower thread and carry back between the top and
center thread with the finger of the left hand. Grasp
the strand again with the thumb and finger of the
right hand, carry it over the thread, push it between
the top and center thread with the finger of the left
hand. Grasp it again with the thumb and finger of
the right hand. Finish it up by pulling it between
the center and lower thread with the thumb and finger
of the right hand. Pull the strand doAvn with the
thumb and finger of the left hand to within about a
half-inch of the end of the strand. Take the short end
between the thumb and finger of the right hand, allow-
ing the longer end of the strand to pull down tightly
over the first finger of the right hand, twisting in such

80 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

a way that the short ends will all fall on the side of
the weft toward you. This is the improved French
double weft. The double weft is to be woven only
about three inches, a sufficient length for the covering.
The single weft is the same as the double with the ex-
ception that the last stitch is omitted, and can be
woven in larger strands, taking nearly twice the amount
of hair for each strand.

Finish weaving the amount of short hair that you
have in the cards on this strand. Having finished the
strand, tie the end by weaving a thread at the end in
the same manner that the hair is woven. This thread
is woven in for the purpose of keeping the strands
apart. Wind the amount already woven around the
weaving stick at the left by loosening the spools on
the stick at the right, tightening them again when th-
woven strand is wound in place.

Begin the second strand with a thread woven th
same as you finished the first one, starting about fou
inches from the one just completed.

You now have two-thirds of the short hair left in
the needle cards. Divide this in two equal parts, place
in the weaving cards and proceed as before, making two
more strands. These are to be woven single weft.
^ATien the three strands are completed, cut them apart,
take off the end threads that have been woven in place

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

ot the hair, tie the end of your threads in an ordinary
hard knot, leaving the three strands ready for mount-
ing. If cut hair, or hair boughten for the purpose, is
used instead of combings, weave in the same manner,
but it will not require hackling, and the strands can be
woven shorter, as the stem is made shorter in mount-
ing.

MOUNTING.
First wind the mounting cord on the spool of the
mounting machine, the same as winding thread on a

82 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

spool. Fill it by holding the cord and turning the
machine backward, or in the opposite direction from
the way it should turn while mounting.

Wind on the spool a sufficient amount for your
switch, which should be about a yard. Begin by sewing
the mounting cord at the end of one of the shorter
strands by holding the hair in the left hand with the
inner part of the strand toward you. This would be
the part where the short ends protrude at the top of
the strand. It should be sewed on with the ordinary
sewing silk, which should be as near the shade of the
hair as possible. You must sew it especially strong
as this is the only place the mounting cord is sewed to
the switch except at the top.

Wind the mounting cord over the hook at the end
of the spool about six times to keep it from slipping
on the machine. Begin by turning the crank of the
mounting machine, which will twist the cord, and roll
the strand. ' Hold the strand of hair in the hand in
such a manner that in rolling in a spiral up the cord
and not straight around. This leaves the lower part,
or part to which the cord was originally attached, in
the center of the switch. It must be made thin and
pliable. Sew the top end of the strand to the cord.
Cut the strand from the mounting machine about one
inch from the top of the hair. The first strand is now

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 83

completed. Proceed with the next short strand in the
same way, and the third one in the same manner to
within about three inches of the end, then sew the
cord securely to the weft. Now, if there is any dif-
ference in the length of the two short ones, take the
shortest, sew it on at the point where you have fastened
the cord to the weft for the outer strand. Turn the
outer strand around the one you have just completed.
Fasten the third and last strand on the opposite side,
sewing the three securely together. Trim oflF the short
ends of mounting cord that you have left in detaching
the strands from the mounting machine. You now
wijid the silk thread around the mounting cord attached
to the switch covering about an inch and a half, wind-
ing it close enough so that only the silk thread is
visible. Cut ofT the mounting cord about a half-inch
from the end of the covered portion, bring the end down
and make a loop by sewing the other end to the weft.
This is called, covering and making the loop. Now, wind
the balance of the weft around the point where you
have made the loop, and sew in place as you pro-
ceed. WTien you have reached the end, sew it securely
in place and cut off the knot that has been made at
the end of the strand. A pinching iron^ is best for mak-
ins: the top at the loop perfectly smooth, but if you

84 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

have none for this purpose, press it as smooth as pos-
sible with any other convenient instrument.

Now, wind your thread around the top from the
loop down an eighth of an inch. Fasten the end of
the thread in place by stitching through the top of
the switch and back through the loop. Several stitches
of this kind will be necessary in order to keep the
thread from slipping over the loop. This completes the
switch.

This is the usual way of making switches, but there
are variations that can be followed. One is the stem-
less switcli. made by weaving in two strands mounted
by folding the weft in folds of about two inches in
length, and the two strands sewed together in the cen-
ter. Another style of mounting is by ^king a clock
spring, that can be had at any jewelry store, cut it
about nine inches long, straighten it out and cover it
with wig riV)bon. Form in a circle and sew the weft
to the spring. This style of switch is used to best
advantage where oue has but little hair, the hair
being made into a knot at the top of the head and the
circle placed over it.

VENTILATING.
The articles necessary for this purpose is the ventilat-
ing net, ventilating needle and a wig block. Tack the

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

ventilating net to the top of the wig block and if you
have the adjustable block holder, place it in a con-
venient position to be worked upon. Steel points, made
for this purpose, should be used in fastening the net to
the block. You should not ventilate combings, always
using cut hair. Take a small strand of hair betweeen
the finger and thumb of the left hand, with ventilating
needle in the right hand. Twist the strand at the end
and form in a loop held in the loft hand. Begin at the
end, always working lengthwise of the net. The ven-
tilating needle is curved and by running it through the
lace, it will protrude in the next hole from the en-
trance. Kook the loop of the strand into the needle,

86 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

which has a hook at the end, drawing the hair through
the net to the right and avoid letting it slip from
the needle. Now, bring the needle under the strand
of hair, holding between the thumb and finger of the
left hand, drawing partly through, and pull through the
loop now^ formed. Draw it tightly in the net. If ven-
tilating for fine work use each hole in the net, but
ordinarily you would use every second one. In ventilat-
ing pompadours, it is customary to ventilate about
three rows^ and the foundation should be from 10 to 12
inches long. You proceed in the same manner to ven-
tilate Toupees, front pieces and bangs. In making
a part for the front piece, begin in the center, marked
with straight line underneath the net to be guided by.
Ventilate one side from you, tmn the work around and
ventilate the other side in the same way, leaving one
row of holes between, if you want a wide part, such as
men's toupees, if a narrow^ part is desired, ventilate in
all the holes.

ARTIFICIAL CURLS.
Curls are woven the same as the switch and mounted
the same, except that there is but one strand and no
stem. They can be made of short hair for curls around
the face, or of long hair for the French curl at the
neck. Montagues are made by fastening a strand of

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 87

hair to a style of hairpin for this purpose. A strand
of hair woven from four to six inches long and made
of six-inch hair.

PUFFS.

Puffs are usually woven about nine inches long, made
out of ten-inch hair. They can be mounted on millinery
braid and sewed back and forth, making them about
two to two and a half inches long. The millinery braid
should extend about one and a half inches on each
side. They should be done up by rolling on the fingers,
the same as the puff described in Hairdressing, then
fold the extended ends of the millinery braid on the
inside to hold the puff in place.

POMPADOURS.

First prepare your foundation by taking a strip of
ventilating net cut about an inch wide at each end and
tapering to about one and a half inches in the center.
It should be about twelve "nches long. Prepare it by
turning the upper edge a*icr binding it with binding
ribbon about one-eighth o* an inch, leaving about an
inch of the ribbon at each snd to finish the end of the
lace when the pompadour ^w completed. Tack the net
on the wig block, as described in ventilating. Ventilate
lengthwise, on the lower slue, about four rows, within
an eight of an inch of the edge, using sixteen-inch natu-
ral wavy hair.

88 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

After completing the ventilating, remove it from the
block, fold the lower edge of the lace and hem in
place. Now, lay the ventilated piece aside and weave
two strands, as described in weaving, each the length
of the ventilated piece, using the same hair and of the
same length. Now, sew the first strand on back of the
ventilated hair, opposite to the side on which the rib-
bon has been sewed, and place the other strand just
above the first and sew in place. Now, finish the ends
by sewing the ribbon in place.

There are also less expensive pompadours, made by
weaving the hair in two or three sfrands of the proper
length desired, and sewed to millinery braid, instead of
the ventilated piece. In the center of the strand there
should be sewed an additional piece of millinery braid
about five inches long, sewed at each end, about three
inches apart, so that it will stand up when it is put
on the head. A strand of hair of the same length should
also be fastened to this piece. Another style is made
by weaving combings, if desired, in place of cut hair,
in a strand of the proper length, weaving the top
strand of wire in place of thread. The wire must be of
very light and flexible material, and of the kind that
will be durable. It should be woven coarse, and if it
is desired heavy, weave an extra piece, using the

HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 89

three threads and not the wire, and sew the two to-
gether.

In cutting the threads from the loom, proceed the
same as directions in weaving, but in cutting off the
wire leave about an inch at each end, so that it can be
bent in a loop. Cover with thread, the same as in
making button holes.

DRESSING POMPADOURS, FRONT PIECES, ETC.

The method of water waving is used to dress bangs,
pompadours, front pieces, etc. Only natural wavy hair
can be dressed in this manner.

Prepare article to be dressed by tacking with wig
points on the table or work board, for this purpose.
To half a pint of water, take three tablespoonfuls of
Bandoline, or curling fluid. Dampen the hair thoroughly
with this solution. Begin at the top, using a rubber
comb with a handle. Take the hair in parts about
three inches wide, each part being combed out well
and begin on the left side. Comb down about an inch,
draw to the right and crease it. Hold this in place
with the back of another comb or with the left hand,
pushing the first wave up ■ a little, then comb down
about another inch, draw to the left and crease it, and
continue until all is waved, keeping the hair quite wet
during the process. The waves may be made large or

90 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL.

small as desired. For pompadours the waves are made
large. Bangs and front pieces are waved smaller. The
article should be left on the board twenty-four hours, or
until thoroughly dried before removing. In case you
are in a hurry for it, it can be ironed dry with a hot
flatiron.

Pompadours, as a rule, are not dressed throughout in
this manner. The ends being thoroughly saturated with
water to take out the kinky effect and combing the
top into natural waves by dipping the comb into the
water and Bandoline solution.

Montagues, or short curls, for the front of the face,
should be dressed by winding the end around the fore-
finger of the left hand. Remove from the finger afteT'
you have started the curl and finishing by rolling it
around in a tight ring and pin with a common pin.
These are usually dressed on a wig block, covered with
paper. The same preparation being used as above de
scribed, and after thoroughly drying, may be combed
out or left rolled as preferred.

BANDOLINE.
Flaxseed, 1 oz. ' Water, 1 pint.

Boil together 15 minutes strain and add:
Rosewater, 1 quart. Gum tragacanth, 1 oz.

Let stand 24 hours, strain, and add any scent desired.

MANICURERS' MANUAL, HI

MANICURING.

Manicuring- is the art of treating^ the fing-er nails
and cuticle. It has formerly been considered a part
of the doctor's profession, but recently has been
taken up by masseuse and hairdressers and is rapidly
becoming more popular. The demand for this work
can better be illustrated by explaining the fact that
very few hairdressers now-a-days find ready employ-
ment without being able to do manicuring-. The
prices for this work are much better than most any-
thing else in the line of trades and a manicurer finds
employment at easier work, shorter hours and better
salary than most any work that a man or woman can
engage in.

The work consists of trimming and shaping the
nails, trimming the cuticle, and when necessary per-
forming slight operations in shaping the nail or do-
ing away with hang nails, also removing- stains and
polishing.

SEIvEiCTION AND CARE OF TOOLS.

A complete outfit of tools for this work consists of
a file, scissors, cuticle knife, buffer, polisher, orange
sticks and emery boards

92 MANICURERS' MANUAL

FllvIiS.

In selecting tools, you should have two files, one
of coarse and the other of fine grain. The kind most
used is a thin slim file, one that is easy to handle
and can be got under the edge of the nail nicely.
Select only those of the best grade; the thinner ones

are of the best quality but are much easier broken.
Great care must be used in handling these tools,
being careful not to drop them or use them for any
other work except filing the nails.

SHEARS.

In selecting scissors, there is but one style in the
regular manicuring shear, but they are of dififerent
grades. Nothing but a full steel shear is desirable,
and ayoid gettirg those with fancy handles as they
are usually made Tor private use instead of practical
work at the business.

The regular manicuring shear has curved blades,
and no other shear will answer the purpose.

MANICURERS' MANUAL. 93

The cuticle knife is one with a very short blade,
used for loosening- the cuticle, taking" off hang- nails
and cleaning underneath the nail. Select the ones

that are the thinnest and most pointed to enable you
to get under the nail without loosening the flesh.

The buffer is used for rubbing the nail after the
powder is applied. It is for the purpose of putting the
nail in proper condition to be polished. Do not try
to use the small ones ordinarily used in private use.
Select one that is soft and pliable and one about four
inches long.

The polisher is similar to the buffer except that it is
longer and curved more giving a finer polish to the
nail. In selecting look to those that are soft and
thick.

Orange sticks are used for loosening the cuticle,
applying the bleach and cleaning under the nail. They
are made of orange wood and do not soak soft and
swell as any other wood does when kept in water.
There is only one grade and size.

The emery boards are used for smoothing the edge
of the nail after the file has been used. The same as
the orange sticks they are all the same grade and
size, each one having a coarse and fine side, the
coarse side to be used first and the fine last. After

94 MANICURERS' MANUAL,.

the file has been used, rough edges always appear on
the nail, and the emery board is the only thing that
will smooth it properly.

Proper tools used in professional work can only
be secured at the wholesale houses. Do not select
the manicuring outfits that are on sale at stationery
stores and only get those of good, quality. Any
wholesale hair goods store will handle them.

Manicure on a table the proper height to be con-
venient for you to work upon sitting down. Table
should be narrow so that the customer may sit close
to the operator. A finger bowl and nail brush are ne-
cessary, and usually small cushions are used for the
customers to rest their arms upon.

THE FIRST WORK.

Seat your customer opposite you at the table begin-
ning with the thumb of the left hand. If the nail is
very long it is better to use a small pair of shears (not
the manicuring shears) to trim it to a convenient
length to be filed in proper shape. Hold the file in
the right hand between the fingers and thumb, as
shown in the illustration. Begin at one side and
file the nail from one end to the other. As the file
will only cut one way, it is not necessary to file back
and forth. Always draw the file in the direction that
it cuts, and from the side of the nail to the center.

Emery Board.

Polisher.

Buffer.

MANICURERS' MANUAL

When one side is filed sufficiently begin on the oppo-
site and draw the file toward the center of the nail,
as in filing: backwards it gfiyes the fing-er an unpleas-
ant sensation. Always consult your customer as to
the shape they prefer their nails; often you are

FILING.

requested to file them pointed, while other times

rounding them to a graceful curve.
After the fingers and thumb of one hand haye

been filed place them in the finger bowl with warm
oap water, allowing them to soak until the right
land has been filed. After completing the filing of

the right hand take the left hand from the bowl of

water, wipe it thoroughly and prepare for trimming-

the cuticle, and put the right hand in the bowl ol

water.

MANICURERS' MANUAL.

Take the orange stick in the rig^ht hand, dip it in
the bottle of Ongaline — which is for the purpose of
bleaching- the nail and removing stains. Hold the
left as shown in illustration, loosen the cuticle by

USING ORANGE STICK.

pushing it back with the end of the orange stick and
gently working the stick underneath, leaving the cut-
icle free from the nail. Caution should be displayed
in this work not to hurt the customer or mar the

MANICURERS' MANUAL.

surface of the nail. After the cuticle has been thor-
cug-hly loosened, remove all the black stains from
underneath the nail by applying- bleach with the
orange stick.

When hang- nails appear loosen them as much as
possible with the cuticle knife, and cut them out as

TRIMMING CUTICI^E.

close to the roots as possible with the shears. If
thoroug-hly loosened they will not appear again, but
if only partly trimmed off they continue to grow, and
are annoying. When rough edges appear above
the cuticle they should be trimmed close with the

MANICURERS' MANUAL. 99

shears; apply vaseline, or some substance that will
soften and avoid further breaking- of the skin.

Next take your Manicuring- shears in the thumb
and second fing-er of the right hand and trim the
loose cuticle, beginning at one side and work around
the nail, being careful not to trim in far enough to
make the cuticle bleed, also hold the shears in such
a position so as to trim underneath and not at the
outer edge of the cuticle. Begin at the right side
and work clear around, holding the shears in the
same position. Do not try to trim one side and then
change yoiir shears and trim the other; this mistake
is often made. If the top of the cuticle is trimmed
and not the under part it will allow hang- nail to
appear in a short time. This must be avoided.

After the cuticle has been trimmed on the four fin-
gers and thumb, then apply the rosaline by rubbing
a small portion on the nail with the flng-er, then dip
the buffer in the powder and polish the nail by
rubbing back and forth over the nail until it has a
smooth, g-lossy surface. The rosaline is to give it the
proper tint and assist in polishing, and the powder
is to dry and enamel the nail. In polishing-, be care-
ful not to irritate or heat the nail, as the friction of
the polisher soon warms or burns, making it very
disagreeable for the customer.

Now, take the rig-ht hand from the bowl, wipe it

100 MANICURERS' MANVAl,

dry and clean, loosen the cuticle and polish the same
as the left.

After both hands have been polished wash the
nails of the left hand by cleaning- them thoroughly
with the nail brush to remove all powder and rosa-
line from the nail then rinse the hands in clean,
warm water and wipe dry. After both hands have
been treated in the same way, use the cuticle knife
to remove stains that cannot be taken out with the
bleach and orange stick underneath the nail. Treat
both hands this way a"-^. smooth the edg-e of the
nail with the emery board, using" it the same as the
file. In case a high polish is required, use what is
called "Beau Brummel" by applying it with the brush,
being careful not to allow it to touch the cuticle.
After applying- it to all the nails use the polisher
and rub gently, the same as with the buffer. In case
the high polish is not requested, finish the nail by
using the dry polisher, rubbing gently until a bril-
liant, smooth surface appears.

In case the blood has been drawn by using the
cuticle knife or shears, apply tincture of iron or
Peroxide of Hydrogen to stop the blood and act as
a disinfectant.

Great care must be taken in keeping the tools
well sterilized for in u«>ing them where a customer's

MANICURER'S MANUAL.

101

nails would be diseased, they would convey the dis-
ease to another customer very easily. Sterilize by
dipping- them in a fifty per cent solution of carbolic
acid.

The material used in manicuring- can be had or
any toilet supply house or drug store. They consis^

102

MANICURERS' MANUAL.

of Ongaline, a liquid, Nail powder, and Rosaline, in
the form of a paste and Beau Brummel, a liquid put
up in packag-e with brush for applying-. Be very cau*

tious in keeping- the liquids well corked both while
using- and after completing as they evaporate or lose
their strength and scent.
Be very careful not to put the orang-e stick in the

bleach after cleaning- the nail until well wiped off
as the material would soon be spoiled if dirt was al-

MANICURERS' MANUAL.

lowed to drop in it. Be very careful not to allow the
Ongaline to touch or drop on the clothes, as it wilj
take out the color the same as lemon juice.
PRICES FOR MANICURING.

The prices for manicuring- men and women are usu-
ally different. They rangre all the way from 25 cents
to $1.00; usually establishments that charg-e $1.00
for men charg-e 50 cents for ladies. I/adies' nails
are usually easier manicured than men's. The aver-
ag-e price for the work, however, is 50 cents, and it
requires from fifteen minutes to half an hour,

NAIL TINT.

Oil of Lentise Yz oz.

Salt Yz^r.

Resin 1 scrup.

Alum 1 scrup.

Wax 1 scrup.

NAIIy POWDE^R.

Oxide tin, very fine 4 lbs.

Carmine X 1^^.

Oil of Berg-amot 150 g-rs.

Oil of L<a vender 150 gr»

FINGER NAIIy BLEACH.

In case Ongaline cannot be secured you may use
lemon juice or Peroxide of Hydrogen, the only
trouble being that lemon juice soon spoils, where
Ongaline can be kept always if well corked.

J.l>* MASSAGE MANUAL.

INSTRUCTIONS IN FACIAL
MASSAGE.

In this, the Twentieth Century, beauty is considered a
God Given Gift and its preservation a solemn duty.
The day for secrecy has gone by and men and women
aliice now call as regularly on their Massuer as upon
their Manicurist and with as little thought of secrecy.
Age should be a matter of looks not of years, and
everyone may remain youiig if they are willing to de-
vote the time and attention necessary for good results.
If old age has been creeping on apace and left unlovely
tell-tale lines as a reminder, proper massage will rem-
edy the evil and beauty be restored. That facial mas-
sage has become a necessity is recognized by the care-
fully groomed man of today as \\^ell as by my lady.
Massage will not alone do everything, but a sensible
diet, air, sunshine and scrupulous cleanliness combined
with a reliable skin food and correct massage will do
wonders.

As the first requisite for a good complexion is thor-
cuo-h cleanliness, we recommend the Automatic Mas-
sage, or Hydro-Vacu, as being the best agent to bring

MASSAGE MANUAi

105

about the desired result, the combined suctions and
pressure opening up and cleansing the pores automat-
ically. Unless there are deep lines the use of the
Automatic Massage will be all that is found necessary,
as it thoroughly exercises all the muscles in the face,

AUTOMATIC OR HYDRO-VACU.

but if the unwelcome lines are there, they must be
worked out with tissue food by the hand manipulation.
Blackheads disappear as if by magic by this treatment.
First. — Make the patient perfectly comfortable. If
a barber chair cannot be procured, use a large easy

106 MASSAGE MANUAL.

chair that can be tilted back, thus throwing the head
up, making it comfortable for both patient and oper-
ator. Pin the hair back closely, remove the collar,
tuck towel in to protect the clothing and then cover
the patient with the large apron, same as used by bar-
bers and hairdressers. Ask the patient to relax the
muscles and quietly rest. Rub in thoroughly the
Cream, always using a circular motion and working
upward and outward. Leave the Cream, which is a
bleach, on the face while fixing the Automatic Massage
Bag ready for use. If the face is inclined to be oily
or black heads are troublesome, fill bag with quite
hot water. If not, use lukewarm water in which a tea-
spoonful of powdered boracic acid has been dissolved.
Hang the bag about six feet from the floor and place the
outlet tube in pail with sufficient water in it to cover end
of tube. Wipe the face with a small towel or napkin,
removing all cream. Now place the Depurater on the
face, open the clasp and move slowly upward on the
mouth line (the line running from outside of nose to
the corner of the mouth) to the nose, across the cheek,
up to the temple and down across the little lines which
form under the eyes. Move the automatic massage
slowly across these fine lines and work in a circle
around the cheek bone, avoiding the lines at the cor-
ner of the eye. Work on the temples and across the

MASSAGE MANUAL. 107

forehead m circles, always remembering to move slow-
ly. After finishing one side of the face, work across
the chin and do the other side in the same manner. If
plump cheeks are wished for, work in circles where
plumpness is desired. If the face is a young one with
no heavy deep-set lines all that is now necessary is to
rub in the Tissue Food, thoroughly cleanse and follow
with another Automatic Massage Treatment using cold
water in place of warm as before described. The cold
water hardens the muscles and closes the pores. If an
astringent is desired, use a small piece of alum in the
cold water. An astringent is desirable where the pores
are coarse. After using the cold water, wipe away all
traces of cream, powder and your patient will leave
refreshed in body and mind. If tell-tale lines of age
or trouble are there, hand massage must follow the
use of the Auto Massage and w^arm water. In mas-
saging keep the fingers moist with the Tissue Food, and
use only the balls of the finger tips. Always massage
lightly except when wishing to reduce flesh, as in case
of a double chin to be removed. Repeat each move-
ment from twenty-five to fifty times, according to the
necessity of the case.

F-i'st Movement. — Place the finger tips, both hands,
under the chin and move upward to the ears with a
light, gentle, firm stroke, finishing the stroke either be-

108

MASSAGE MANUAL.

THIRD MOVEMENT.

MASSAGE MANUAL. ^09

hind the ears or ending with a circular movement under
the ear.

Second Movement. — Place the finger tips on the lines
and with light even strokes work up, terminating each
stroke in the center of the cheek.

Third Movement. — Place the finger tips in the center
of the forehead and work lightly, smoothing the lines
outward to the hair at the temples.

Fourth Movement. — Beginning at the inner corner of
the eye on the upper lid^ move across to the outer cor-
ner in a curved line, using the ball of the second finger,
and being very careful not to press heavily on the eye
ball. For the little lines which form at the inner cor-
ner of the eye under the lower lid, use a short stroke
beginning at the nose and enamg in about the middle
of the lower lid.

Fifth Movement. — To preserve the cupid's bow, place
the first finger in the center of the upper lip and with
the thumb and second finger work toward the center.
The stroke should be a very short one or the shape of
the lip will be destroyed. The lower lip should be
treated in the same manner.

110

MASSAGE MANUAL.

FIFTH MOVEMENT.

Sixth Movement. — In massaging the throat, use the
rotary movement and massage much heavier than the
face. Use skin food plentifully and give particular
attention to the tell-tale lines of age or stiff linen col-
lars, under the ears.

MASSAGE MANUAL.

Ill

SIXTH MOVEMENT.

ANOTHER METHOD OF MANIPULATION.

First Movement. — Fingers under chin — thumbs at
center of forehead — slide thumbs down to chin, turn
hand with fingers on chin back to ears.

2. Fingers under chin, thumbs at each side of nose,
slide thumbs down and out, turn fingers on chin back
to ears.

Forehead. — 1. Fingers together at side of forehead,
slide forward with fingers of other hand moving up
and down; reverse.

2. Fingers together, move both hands up and down
alternately.

112 MASSAGE MANUAL.

3. Fingers on each side of face, move thumbs circular
on forehead.

4. With middle fingers rub alternately upward be-
tween eyebrows.

5. Fingers together, rub from between eyebrows up-
ward and around to temples.

Eyes. — '1. Fingers on chin, thumbs together in mid-
dle of forehead, circle around the eyes and over the
eyebrows.

2. Fingers together, draw over the lids, spreading at
the corners of eyes.

3. With the thumb and middle finger together at
temple, slide apart and hold — give circular with fore
finger of right hand.

4. With middle finger circle over the eyelids.

5. Fingers together, draw over the eyelids, outward.
With fingers on chin, circle thumbs on nose and around

chin.

Pat face with hands alternately upward.

Palms of hands, circle hollows of cheeks.

Pinch cheeks and in front of ears with thumb and
closed fore finger, upward.

Rub chin upward.

Double chin, rub down and low.

Circle neck and pat upward.

MASSAGE MANUAL. 113

For circles under eyes, rub cheeks up, with thumbs;
fingers at side of face.

Fii?gers on foreheaa, rub thumbs from front of ears
up to the eyes — tight pressure.

CLEANSING CREAM.

Almond oil 4 oz.

White wax 1 oz.

Spermaceti i oz.

Put all in double boiler, melt and stir with silver
fork until it becomes creamy. Pour into jars and when
cooled will be ready for use.

SKIN FOOD.

Almond oil 4 oz.

WTiite wax 1 oz.

Spermaceti 1 oz.

Cocoanut oil 1 oz.

Lanolin i oz.

Put all ingredients into a double boiler and when
thoroughly heated remove from fire and stir with silver
fork until almost cold. Then add few drops of oil of
rose.

FACE POWDER.

Bismuth oxychloride 1 oz.

Chalk, prepared, finest 2 J oz.

French chalk 5 oz.

FACE POWDER.

Carbonate of magnesium ^ oz.

Pulverized tale 1 lb.

Oil of rose 8 drops

Oil of neroli 20 drops

Extract of jasmin 14 oz.

Extract of musk 1 dr.

Mix thoroughly and pass through a 100-mesh bolting
cloth.

FACE BLEACH.
Said to resemble Mme. Rupert's.

Corrosive sublimate 8 gr.

Tincture of benzoin 1 dr.

Water q. s. to make 8 oz.

Mix, apply night and morning.

FOR PIMPLES.

Camphor 10 gr.

Acacia pul 20 gr.

Sulphur precip 2 drachms

Lime water -. 2 oz.

Rose water 2 oz.

Apply to the face upon retiring, let dry and brush off
the powder.

TO REMOVE BLACKHEADS.

Ergotine 6 grammes

Oxide zinc 14 grammes

Vaseline 60 grammes

Wash the face Avith warm water, dry with soft towel,
apply ointment on retiring, allow it to remain on all
night.

MASSAGE MANUAL. 115

ELECTRICAL FACIAL MASSAGE.
In addition to the finger manipulation, electric mas-
sage has become very popular. It is considered by
many to be one of the best stimulants we have. No
massage parlor is complete without a battery for this
purpose.

INSTRUMENTS REQUIRED.
The instruments or attachments necessary with the
battery are the conducting cords, metal handles, sponge
disc, wrist electrode and massage roller. The faradic
current is used entirely in the massage work. A two-
cell battery is sufficient, and are what are known as
dry cells. With ordinary use, cells should last from
six to nine months, and when exhausted can be replaced
for 50 cents per pair. The battery and attachments
must be handled with care. A massage may be given
by use of wrist electrode, which conveys a current
through the operator, or with the sponge disc or roller.

There are a great many manufacturers of batteries
all working similar, but the one illustrated here is put
up in a wooden case, containing all the attachments
necessary and is portable, weighs less than 10 pounds.
With a battery of this kind it is impossible to injure
the patient or even administer a severe shock.

IIG

MASSAGE MANUAL.

MASSAGE WITH WRIST ELECTRODE.
Place the customer comfortably in a chair, with all
muscles relaxed; prepare your battery by attaching
the conducting cord to the post marked (P), and to
the other end attach metal handle and place it in the
customer's hand. There will be no benefit in massage
unless the patient holds the metal handle. Attaching the
other cord to the post marked (N) fasten the wrist
band around the wrist of the right hand with a sponge
disc (thoroughly wet) on the inside, so that the sponge
will come in contact with wrist. This is accomplished
by first unscrewing the metal that holds the sponge

MASSAGE MANUAL.

117

from the part to which is attached the cord. Place
the screw through the hole at one end of the wrist
band, and bend the wa*ist band around, making a
circle, and put the screw through the slot, at the other
end of the band; then replace the part to which the
cord is to he attached, which fastens the band in place
to be put over the wrist. Slip the hand through the

band and tighten enough so that the sponge will be
held firmly on the wrist. Attach the cord as shown
in illustration; then you are ready to proceed with the
massage. Then turn the current on by moving the
lever near the post marked (N) from right to left.

118 MASSAGE MANUAL.

The buzzing sound will denote the battery in action.
Proceed with the movement same as described on pre-
ceding pages, using either style that yourself or cus-
tomer prefers.

It should be remembered that the movement should
be enacted as rapidly as possible, and in no case should
the battery be in use over 20 minutes. If the cur-
rent is not sufficiently strong to be felt by patient, the
force may be increased by drawing out the shield at the
right of the battery; draw out a short distance at a
time, so that the shock will not be severe. Gradually
increase the current to sufficient force. By this method
the current passes through the operator to patient,
connection being formed only as the fingers are placed
on face of the patient.

MASSAGE WITH THE ROLLER.

In using the roller massage in place of wrist electrode,
electricity is conveyed direct to the patient, and not
through operator. The roller should only be used
after completing the work of finger manipulation. De-
tach wrist electrode from cord and attach in its place
the roller with wooden handle.

The patient must hold metal handle attached to sec-
ond cord, as formerly described. The connection is
formed as soon as the r<^ller is placed on the face, and

MASSAGE MANUAL.

liU

the lever turned to the left, putting the battery in
operation. The same buzzing sound denotes the bat-
tery in working order.

It is essential that the customer is laid back in a
comfortable position, to get the best results of the
treatment. In using the roller, on the face, roll up and
never down, on the same principle that you massage

the face. Underneath the eyes, the roller is to be
carried lightly in a rounding movement. On the side
of the face the lines can be crossed and a little more
pressure used. Across the forehead smooth the lines as
much as possible by drawing the skin lightly between

120 MASSAGE MANUAL.

the thumb and finger of left hand and follow with roller
in right hand.

The roller should never be used more than ten min-
utes. The chamois covering the roller must be soaked
in water in order to better convey the electricity. Tt
will be well to use cologne water or some scented
water, as it will be more pleasant for your patient. Be
very careful to use a mild current, otherwise the roller
will be an instrument of torturi"* rather than the pleas-
ant sensation that is desired. \ k all work the positive
pole is the one to be attached t > the roller, or sponge
disc.

MASSAGE WITH THE SPONGE DISC.
The sponge disc should only be used after completing
work of finger manipulation. Attach the sponge disc,
well soaked in water, to the cord in place of the roller.
The roller is to be unscrewed from the wood handle
and sponge disc to take its place. Use the handle at-
tached to the sponge disc, in the right hand, and go
over the entire face in a rotary movement, always work-
ing from lower part of the face up. The patient must
hold the metal handle as before. It is best to use
cold water, and if the face is too soft, a little alum,
which helps close the pores and harden the skin, can
be used.

MASSAGE MANUAL.

121

As this is the last part of the work, before applying
the powder cold water is preferable. It is better to
have it mildly perfumed.

ELECTRIC DEPERATOR.

A new form of deperator (which is the cup used with
automatic massage), has recentlj ^^een invented, and is
so constructed that it allows the use of electric bat-
tery while using automatic massage. The work should
proceed as in the use of old style cup, except that the
patient is to hold the metal handle attached to the
battery. The other cord is attached to the deperator.
This cord, of course, must be the same to which the
wrist electrode, roller or sponge disc has been at-
tached. This method affords a pleasant and soothing
sensation, while using automatic massage. Electricity
being fatal to germs, all danger of disease is averted
and impurities of the skin entirely eradicated.

122 MASSAGE MANUAL.

FACE POWDER.

In all methods of massageing it is best to finish your
work with a small amount of pure vegetable powder,
applied with a chamois. It will be found very essen-
tial that you avoid the cheaper brands, that may do
more injury to the skin than benefit.

In case you prepare your own powder, it will be
well to bolt it several times after being mixed, using a
fine mesh bolting cloth. Powder should always be used
before the freshly massaged face comes in contact with
the outer air or sun.

It is well to instruct your patient to remove all
powder by thoroughly cleansing the face each night
before retiring. The purest substance may often be-
come harmful unless this rule is observed.

Any of the instruments used in electric massage can
be had at the Moler Supply House, 39 Peck Ct., Chi-
cago, Ills.

VIBRATORY FACIAL MASSAGE.

Vibratory Facial Massage is given with an apparatus
made for this purpose, and by its use as much work
can be accomplished in five minutes as with the ordi-
nary finger manipulation in one-half hour. The same
precaution should be observed in following the musclee-
and lines of the face, as with the finger manipula-
tion, and care must be taken not to overdo the work.

MASSAGE MANUAL. 123

INSTRUMENTS NECESSARY.

The articles necessary in addition to the vibrator are
the apparatus for attaching to the electric plug, the
motor, a hand-piece and straps, the rubber cup with
handles, and hard rubber disc. The hand massage is
recommended, but where the rubber cup is desired, it
can be attached by a spring at the end of a wire arm.
The motion given to the machine is a short vibration,
the stroke of which can be lengthened or shortened by
an adjustment for that purpose. The motor is hung
on springs from an iron stand, and the entire apparatus
on rollers, so it can easily be moved from one chair
to another as it is needed. The machine must be kept
well oiled, with all bolts and screws tightened. Too
much care cannot be given this one particular point,
as it would soon mean the entire destruction of the
machine to neglect this.

The straps and pads used for fastening the Rands to
the apparatus can be detached and should be washed
and sterilized frequently. The rubber cup should be
sterilized after each operation.

FIRST WORK.
Prepare your customer the same as described
in former instruction, by application of cream and,
if necessary, the use of the automatic massage.

124

MASSAGE MANUAL.

Start with having the fingers well anointed in the
massage cream, after fastening the right hand to the
machine. Take your position on one side of the chair
with the apparatus on the other. Place your left hand
on the customer's head in such a way as to steady it
Start the machine in motion by turning on the elec-

tricity, and proceed by allowing the fingers to gently
tap the face. Practice will aid greatly in this work.
When manipulation is being accomplished by rapid
movement of the hand, it affords a very pleasant sensa-
tion to the patient as well as the operator. It will

MASSAGE MANUAL. 125

be found that only one side of the face can be mas-
saged without moving the apparatus or revolving the
chair. The ordinary revolving barber chair is best for
this purpose, as it is of convenient height and aids
the operator to move the patient's face in a better posi-
tion to be massaged.

The instruments can be had at the Moler Supply
House, 39 Peck Court, Chicago, 111.

ELECTROLYSIS.

Electrolysis is the science of removing superfluous
hair, warts, moles and other blemishes by use of the
electric needle. It is a science comparatively new to
the general world, although one that is old in medical
profession. Dr. Hayes, in his book of Facial Blemishes,
as far back as 1889, has said about the method:

"The employment of electricity for removal of super-
fluous hair has stood the test for not less than 13 years
by the profession, and the verdict is that it has come
to stay.

"I well remember the unfriendly criticism of some
members of the medical profession who had less knowl-
edge of the physics and therapeutics of electricity than
some other branch of the medical science. That time
of criticism is passed away, and the success of the
operation depends upon the skill of the operator. So

ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 127

many have proven the competency of the process, that
if a failure is recorded the operator and not the method
is to be blamed."

Closely related to superfluous hair are naevi and
other facial blemishes, in the removal of which elec-
tricity in some of its modifications serve as principal
or an adjuvant.

This work since the days of Dr. Hayes has been im-
proved upon, although practically the same method is
employed. In the use of the apparatus that we recom-
mend for this purpose, no harm can come to the pa-
tient unless a slight scar, and this can be avoided if
the work is done properly. Only carelessness or an
entire disregard for instructions on the following pages
would be the only cause that would result in any
harm.

This work has been considered a dangerous opera-
tion by many, but with reasonable caution it can be
done with as good results by a beginner as by an
expert.

The principal requirement is a reasonably good sight
and steady nerves; not over one-half hour at each sit-
ting should be devoted to the work without a rest.

In removing superfluous hair from the face one should
try to remember that not m'bre than one should be re-
moved in the same part of the face. This is to avoid

128 ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL.

inflammation by too many punctures of the needle in
close proximity. In order to destroy the hair the needle
must enter the follicle, which is the tissue around the
hair, and penetrates down the sheath at the aide of
the hair to the papilla or root of the hair. The object
ia to destroy as little tissue as possible in destroying
the hair. The amount of the tissue destroyed depends
on the length of time the needle is left in the place.

One great trouble in electrolysis is being able to
follow the sheath to the papilla, or root, as there are
usually sebaceous glands or sacks in which the needle
will sometimes find its way in place of following the
hair to the root. Another trouble in following the
sheath is that the hair does not always grow from the
papilla to the surface of the skin in straight lines. It
sometimes leaves the skin slanted in a certain direction
while the undergrowth is in another.

In addition to the treatment of superfluous hair, the
electric needle will be found most useful in remov-
ing warts, and moles, leaving the surface perfectly
smooth and without a scar, if the work is done prop-
erly. This method is considered far superior to any
other process in cases where no more than one-third
of an inch in diameter is to be treated.

ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL.

120

APPARATUS REQUIRED.
The galvanic battery is used for this work and
should consist of at least six cells. It is so arranged
that any number of cells can be used, as the force
of the current is required. A connecting plate is so
arranged with figures that there is no danger of using
too strong a current, when a milder one is desired. One
connection, marked (X), and to this one is always at-
tached the needle cord.

The complete outfit, in addition to the battery, con-
sists of two conducting cords, a needle holder, needles of
assorted sizes, magnifying glass, tweezers, a sponge disc
and one copy of Dr. Hayes' book on Facial Blemishes.

130 ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL.

To this outfit can be added a head light, if satisinc-
tory daylight cannot be had. The needle holder is of
hard rubber with steel lining, and so constructed that
the blades grasp the needle and close on it, holding it in
place by means of an inner screw. The conducting
cords are composed of fine copper wire, covered with
tape, and attached to each end is a metal which is to
be inserted in the plate of the battery, and to the
sponge disc, on which the patients place their hands
while being operated upon.

The sponge disc should always be dampened before
beginning the operation. The magnifying glass is not
always considered essential, but in most cases it will
be needed. The forceps are for the purpose of re-
moving the hair after the needle has done its work
and should have blunt ends.

The head light can only be used where electricity is
accessible. Needles are of steel, platinum, and in some
instances, gold and silver. The steel is preferred for
removing superfluous hair, and is the needle with the
bulbous end. A sharp needle is more apt to penetrate
the sheath, but it is the one used in removing warts
and moles. The disc may be made either of sponge or
heavy felt, attached to a rubber back, in which the
fastener for the cord is attached. The needle is only
off'ective while the patient's hand rests upon the elec-

ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 131

trode. A reclining chair should be used for this
work.

FIRST WORK.

First place your patient in a comfortable posi-
tion and cover with a spread similar to the one
used by hairdressers and massuers. This is to
protect their garments while being operated upon.
As stated previously, if good daylight is not affordable
the artificial light must be so arranged that it will
shine on every part of the face. When you have the
battery in place, on a convenient table with the needles
and discs connected, you are ready to work. Be care-
ful that the hands are made antiseptic by washing them
in a mild solution of formalin. This is very essential
and it is also necessary to sterilize all instruments be-
fore and after each operation. Place the electrode in
the patient's lap, in an easy position to rest the hand
upon; at the same time instruct the patient not to
place the hand upon it until directed. Connect the cord
of the negative electrode, or needle cord, to the number
of cells that you wish to use, usually starting with no
more than two or three.

Take an easy position at the side, or partly in front
of the patient, bathe the part of the face to be oper-
ated upon with dioxygen by using a small piece of
cotton saturated in the fluid. Tlirow the cotton away

132

ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL.

after using. Now pick up the needle holder with the
bulbous needle, holding it in the right hand, at the same
time taking up the forceps between the second, third
and fourth fingers and palm of the same hand, the needle

holder being held by the first finger and thumb. The
needle is now ready to be inserted at the side of the
hair as it emerges from the side of the skin. Allow it
to follow the hair until it strikes a slight ob-
struction. This is supposed to be the papilla of the
hair.

ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 133

Now instruct the patient to place the hands on the
electrode. This forms a connection and starts the needle
in its work of destroying the tissue. If the number of
cells you are using are strong enough, oxygen, or a
froth- like substance, will appear at the point where
the needle is inserted, usually within five or ten seconds
from time connection is made. If the oxygen does not
make its appearance, the cells are not strong enough,
and others must be added until this result is ob-
tained.

Now, instruct your patient to remove the hand from
the electrode, remove the needle, and with the forceps
try lightly to remove the hair. The needle can be held
in the hand at the same time, or it can be held in
the mouth while trying the hair. If the hair does not
remove readily the needle should be again inserted.
Instruct the subject to place the hands on the electrode
again, and in another few seconds try the hair again.
If the needle has followed the follicle to the papilla, it
should be removed very readily, but if it does not after
a second trial use force enough to remove the hair, in-
sert the needle, following, as near as possible, the follicle
or course of hair. Instruct the patient to lay the
hand on the electrode again, and this time you mny
be able to reach the papilla, where you have failed pre-
viously, and by this insertion the root will be destroyed.

134 ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL.

Dr. Hayes, in his book of Facial Blemishes states: "If
the amount of gas disengaged around the needle be
great and the appearance of the tissue indicates that
there has been such a destruction of tissue as may re-
sult in a noticeable scar, or something approximating
thereto, it will be wise on your part to desist from
operating on the hair. I find, however, that should
the hair be allowed to remain, it is quite liable to cause
irritation to the sore which results. I therefore re-
move the hair, knowing that it will return again, and
that in my second attempt my success may be demon-
strated by the ease with which the hair is removed."
It will be better to insert the needle before directing
your patient to lay the hand on the electrode, also be-
fore the needle is to be removed. It must be remem-
berd that you should not allow the needle to remain
long enough to destroy sufficient tissue to form a scar.
In case the sheath of the hair and the outer skin are
so firm that it is difficult to follow the follicle you will
sometimes find it necessary to instruct the patient to
lay the hand on the electrode before the needle is in-
serted and to pass the needle around the hair to
cauterize the cuticle which will allow the hair to be
removed, bringing with it the root sheath. The needle
can then be inserted in place of the hair to destroy tiie
papiUa. The sheath of the hair is not likely to be

ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 135

disturbed in pulling the hair from its place, or the
sheath may draw part way out and block the entrance.
This would make it impossible to reach the papilla.

In cases where the hair protrudes in one direction
and the root in the other, you will sometimes be able
to straighten the course by stretching the cuticle in one
direction or another. When in doubt of having reach'^d
the root of the hair, it is well to allow the needle to
remain as long as it seems safe to do so without caus-
ing a scar.

If you have not destroyed the hair you will doubtless
aid in doing so the next operation. Hair growing in this
manner is called lango hair. It is not usually as deep
in the roots as in ordinary cases.

In connecting the battery the positive plate would
destroy the hair as effectively, but there is more dan-
ger of leaving a scar. The galvanic current is the only
one that can be used effectively in doing the work.

In first beginning the practice of electrolysis it would
be well to begin by operating upon the arm or some
part of the body not as sensitive as the face, and where
a slight scar would not be a disfigurement. There are
many little points that will be gathered from this prac-
tice that cannot be illustrated otherwise.

Again quoting Dr. Hayes: "WTien the negative elec-
trode is used for electrolysis, as in the cases pre-

136 ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL.

viously stated, we have the action of potassium and
sodium hydrates, which destroy the tissue without coag-
ulating the albumen. The activity of the caustic
alkalies not being interfered with by an insoluble bar-
rier of coagulated albumen, causes the tissues to be
destroyed to a much greater distance from the needle
than as though the positive pole had been used. In
addition to the liberation of the caustic alkalies, we
have also the appearance of hydrogen, which, on ac-
count of its high diffusibility, passes between the inter-
stices of the cells and causes a mechanical disintegra-
tion of tissue. A certain portion of the hydrogen be-
coming mingled with the albuminous fluids of the tis-
sues forms a froth which appears around the needle and
serves as an index to the strength of the current and
the rapidity of the destruction of tissue."

After completing your work, which should not be
over one-half hour session, treat the part operated on
with zinc ointment. A perfectly pure massage cream
could be used, but zinc ointment is preferable. In-
struct your patient to allow the ointment to remain
on the face as long as possible before leaving the room,
and to use no soap or water. Until the trace of the
needle has disappeared renew the zinc ointment treat-
ment twice a day by rubbing it well into the skin.
Other portions of the face can be washed as usual.

ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 137

Great care must be taken that no substances are
allowed to come in contact with the portion of the face
that is operated on, that will in any way irritate or
poison it, as it will be more likely to end in a soar.

If the pain caused your patient is too great using
the number of cells required to destroy quickly, lessen
the number, but in this case the needle must be left
in place longer, in order to do its work. Usually the
pain to the patient, on the upper lip, is greater than
other parts of the face, but in many instances the fluid
from the needle is to be inserted in the follicle before
the connection is made. It is best to stretch the skin
with the finger and thumb of the left hand, before in-
serting the needle. This will help in locating it and
lessen the pain. It is best not to remove hairs from
the face where there is an eruption. As a rule, from
60 to 100 hairs can be removed per hour, by skilled
operators. The length of time for each hair, how-
ever, varies according to the condition. Hairs on the
upper lip and cheeks can be destroyed in less time than
any other place.

REMOVING WARTS AND MOLES.

In the removal of warts and moles, the same galvanic
current is used, but usually with more cells. As a rule,
six cells will be necessary for this work, and a sharp-

138 ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL.

pointed needle to fake the place of the bulbous one.
Needles for this work are often made of platinum and
sometimes of gold. It is generally considered that they
lessen the inflammation.

There are a great many varieties of moles and
warts, but are all treated nearly the same. Prepare
your patient the same as for treating superfluous hair,
using the same precautions in cleaning the hands, in-
struments and part to be operated upon. It is essen-
tial in this work that everything be surgically clean. If
the mole is covered with hair it is necessary to remove
it first in the same manner that has been directed.
If in removing the hair the part around the mole be
inflamed or reddened, it is not best to proceed imme-
diately to remove the mole. In some cases it will re-
quire two or three sittings to remove the hair and
prepare the mole to be operated upon.

After using instruments, it is very essential that you
instruct your patient to treat by applying zinc oint-
ment, and in several cases it is better not to try to re-
move the mole until the effects of the needle are en-
tirely eradicated.

In removing the mole start at the point about level
with the surface and direct the needle straight through,
coming out on the oposite side about the same point.
Direct your patient to place hand on electrode, and if

ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 139

the current is strong enough, it will be denoted by the
changed appearance of the mole and by the bubbles that
will appear at the side of the needle. Hold in place
thirty seconds. Instruct the patient to remove the hand
from the electrode and remove the needle. If the cuticle
surrounding the mole has not become much inflamed,
proceed again as before, starting at another point, often-
times crossing the first puncture. It should not be
necessary to work more than five minutes on one mole.
It is well to commence with fewer cells and gradually
increase until you have a suflQcient number, rather than
to try to proceed rapidly.

In many cases the moles are not elevated, but are
level with the surface of surrounding cuticle. Some
are covered with hair and others are not. In port wine
marks, which are broken veins, it is often necessary to
use a network of needles so fixed that they are the
same length and are equal distances apart. They are
often joined in sets, as many as twelve on a disc.
These can only be used on level surfaces. In other in-
stances, the single needles should be used. The usual
price for an operation is $1.00 for a half-hour sitting.

Among a few dont's that Dr. Hayes suggests for
Electrolysis, are the following:

"Don't use a sharp-pointed needle.

"Don't attach the needle to the positive pole.

140 ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL.

"Don't use too strong a current.

"Don't continue the current long enough to leave a
visible scar.

"Don't remove two hairs in close proximity to each
other.

"Don't attempt to remove a hair near an acne pustule.
"IN REMOVING OTHER FACIAL BLEMISHES BY
MEANS OF ELECTROLYSIS:

"Don't use a blunt-pointed needle.

"Don't use too weak a current.

"Don't attempt the removal by electrolysis of a rapid-
growing vascular naevus of more than one-third inch
in diameter.

"Don't attempt the cure of acne or rosacea by elec-
tricity only.

"IN GENERAL.

"Don't attempt to use a faradic current for electroly-
sis.

"Don't use a steel needle with a positive pole.

"Don't have the cords too short.

"Don't make and break the current in metallic cir-
cuit.

"Don't have poor connections between the electrodes
and the battery.

"Don't allow the patient to remove the eschar.

"Don't attempt electrolysis in young children."

CHIROPODY.

Chiropody treats on the ailments of the feet. Actual
practice, such as our college provides for its students,
is, of course, the best experience. We do not pretend to
go deep into the study of anatomy, but rather to give
a practical course that will enable one to treat the
different diseases in a practical manner. For the sake
of enabling the students to understand the cause of
the disease they are treating, we will give a brief de-
scription of the anatomy of the foot.

It will be seen by the following pages that the most
frequent causes of the trouble of this kind are in
neglect. These ailments are easily combated, and with
the proper advice to the patient, permanently cured.
The original cause of the corn will also cause its return,
no matter how effective the cure may be during the
treatment. It is, therefore, essential that you instruct
your patient carefully regarding the care of the feet,
both in relation to wearing apparel and other causes.
Well-fitted shoes is one of the most essential thincrs.
Neither too tight or too loose, a well-supported instep
and not too high heels. The sole should be reason-
ably heavy, but to a certain extent pliable. Patent
leather is not to be recommended, as it prevents the
circulation that is allowed with the ordinary leather.
Try to guard your patient against wearing hosiery with

142 CHIKOPODY MA:NUAL.

coloring matter that is poisonous. The fit is as essen-
tial as the shoe. Cotton hosiery is the best for all
occasions.

A chiropody parlor should be furnished with booths
or small apartments, well lighted. An easy chair
should be provided for the subject, with a low stool for
the operator, a foot tub with apparatus for hot and
cold water convenient. The greatest danger is in the
line of blood poison, and great care should be taken in
sterilizing instruments before and after each operation,
as well as keeping everything surgically clean in con-
nection with the establishment.

Dr. Alexander Clark, in his book of Pedic Surgery,
gives the following Latin medical terms and definitions.
While the study of these is not absolutely necessary
in the practice of Chiropody, they are well to under-
stand :

Abductor pollicis pedis — A muscle of the great toe.

Abductor minimi digite pedis — A muscle of the little
toe.

Aqua — Water.

Articulation — The connection of the bones with each
other.

Astragalus — A short bone of the tarsus, ankle bone.
Calcisos — The largest bone of the heel.

CHIROPODY MANUAL. 143

Cuneiformos — A name applied to three bones of the
tarsus.

Cuboidesos — A tarsal bone of the foot.

Clavus durus — Hard corn.

Clavus mollis — Soft corn.

Digiti — Toes.

Digitalis pedis — A toe.

Dorsum pedis — Back of the foot.

Douche — In therapeutics, a dash of water.

Extensor — To extend.

Fibio tarsal articulation — The articulation of the foot
with the leg.

Flexor — To bend.

Flexor brevis digitorum pedis perforatus — A flexor
muscle of the toe situated at the middle part of the
foot.

Flexor longus pollicis pedis — A flexor muscle of the
great toe, situated at the posterior part of the leg.

Flexor brevis pollicis pedis — A flexor muscle of the
great toe, situated at the anterior and the middle part
of the sole of the foot.

Hydropathy — Water cure.

Gastrocnemius — Largest muscle on posterior of leg.

Integument — To cover or envelope.

Interossei pedis — The small muscles situated between

the metatarsal bones.

144 CHIROPODY MANUAL.

Invclucrum — The sould bone or case that encloses the
desid bone.

Lochia — cleansing.

Metatarsus — A term applied to the several bones of
the foot.

Metatarsal os — Consists of five small bones, one to
each toe.

Musculus — A muscle.

Muscular fibre — The fleshy fibre which forms the
body of the muscle.

Muscular arteries — Arteries that distribute to the
muscles.

Muscular veins — Veins that bring back the blood car-
ried to the muscles by the muscular arteries.

Muscular motion — Motion caused by contraction of
the muscles.

Naviculare os — Two bones of the instep.

Necrosis — A state of the bones where it is deprived
of life, it is popularly known as fever sore.

Onyxis — An ingrowing or inverted toe nail.

Ostitis — Inflammation of the bone.

Pernio — A chilblain.

Pernio simplex — A chilblain in which the skin is
unbroken.

Pernio exulceratus — A chilblain accompanied with ul
ceration.

ClllROrODY MANUAL. 145

Pediluvium — Foot bath.

Phalanges — Toes.

Plantar planaris — From planta the sole of the foot.

Plantar arteries — Two arteries, an external and an
internal, arising from the external of the posterior tibial.

Plantar ligaments — The inferior ligaments of t he
tarsus and metatarsus.

Rete mucosum— A term applied to a supposed mucous
substance between the cuticle and the true skin.

Scaphoid— A bone situated in the fore part of the
foot.

Sesamoid — ^Bones of the great toe.

Tarsal articulation — The union of the tarsal bones.

Tarso extensor minor — The plantaris muaole.

Tarso metatarsal minor — The plantaris muscle.

Tarso metatarsal — In anatomy the articulations which
connect the second row of bones of the tarsus and the
metatarsal bones; also the ligaments, distinguished into
dorsal and plantar, by which articulations are secured.

Tarsophyma — An operation for the removal of the
tarsus cartilage.

Tibia — The large bone of the leg.

Unguis — Nail.

Vesicatorium — A blister.

146 CHIROPODY MANUAL.

BHIEF ANATOMY OF THE FOOT.
The Bones.

The tarsus (instep) is composed of seven bones. The
metatarsal bones are five in number. They articulate
with the tarsal bones at one extremity, and the pha-
langes (toe bones) at the other range. The tarsal and
metatarsal bones are so united as to give the foot an
arched form. This gives elasticity to the step and the
spring of the arch prevents injury. The phalanges of the
foot is composed of fourteen bones. The small toes
have three ranges of bones, while the large toe has but
two.

The tarsus (instep) is composed of the following
bones: The astragalus os calcis, os naviculare, oa cu-
boidea and the three cuneiform bones, called os cunei-
form medium. Metatarsus consists of five small bones
placed between the tarsus and the phalanges.

The sesamoid bones are found at the articulation of
th.e, great toe. Articulations are the parts where any
two or more bones that are to play on each other come
in contact. To give strength to the articulation fibrous
bands, called ligaments, bind one bone to another.
Sprains and dislocations are mainly caused by false
steps or movements by which the articular ligaments
are torn or violently stretched. Negligence and im-
proper care for blows or sprains on the joints is liable

CHIROPODY MANUAL. 147

to endanger life. The joint may become inflamed, water
will be liable to form in them and the bones thicken
and the disease known as white swelling be the result.
The seven bones of the tarsus are so arranged as to
form the strongest support to the body and elastic
arch. The most important of these bones is the as-
tragalus. This bone, with the tibia and fibula, form the
ankle joint; its semicircular head forms a complete pul-
ley; it rolls under the articulating surface of the tibia
and fibula, and the groove, from its boat -like shape, into
which it enters, is called the scaphoid cavity. The at-
tention of the reader is called to the articulation of the
OS naviculare or scaphoid bone.

The phalanges (the toes) consist of fourteen bones
in each foot, viz.: Plantar muscle, the extensor tarsi
minor, the plantaris. Plantar nerves: Two nerves, an
external and internal, proceeding from the posterior
tibial, the internal to the outer side of the fourth and
fifth and to the muscles situated on the side of the foot.

MUSCLES.

The following are the names of the muscles that flex,
or move, the ankles, feet and toes: Tibialis anticus,
used to flex the foot and turn it obliquely inward; ex-
tensor longus pollicis, used to extend the great toe;
extensor longus digitorum, used to extend the toes; per-
oneus tertius forms a part of the extensor longus and

148 CHIROPODY MANUAL.

goes to the little toe. The gastronemius, used to extend
the foot; popliteus, to flex the leg; flexor longus digi-
torum, used to extend the foot; Tibialis posticus, used
to extend the foot; peronous longus, used to extend the
foot and turn it outward; peroneus brevis, used to ex-
tend the foot and turn it outward. The forenamed
twelve muscles of the leg flex, or extend the foot or toes.

The following are the names of twelve muscles of the
foot — extend, draw or flex the toes and joints: The
first two on the dorsum the last ten on the sole. The
extensor brevis digitorum originates in outer part of the
08 caleis, inserted and expands over the toes, and is
used to extend the phalanges. Interossei dorsales occu-
pies the interosseal spaces, used to extend the toes.
Abductor poUicis has its origin on the os caleis and the
annular lig is inserted in the first phalanx of great toe
and is used to draw the great toe from the others. Mus-
cular accessorius used to flex the toes. Lumbricalis, used
to flex the first joint of the great toe. Abductor polli-
cis used to bring the great toe toward the rest; flexor
brevis versalis pedis, used to draw the toe together.
Interossei plantaris occupy the interosseal spaces and
adduct the toes.

SELECTION AND CARE OF TOOLS.

Good tools are as essential in this profession as any
work we teach and it is advisable to use only the best.

CHIROPODY MANUAL. 149

Many chiropodists prefer using a great many knives
of different varieties, but experience has taught us that
it is better to use as small a variety as possible in order
to become more familiar with each instrument.

HONES.

The best hones we have found for sharpening chirop-
odist's instruments is the Cuban clay, a very convenient
size is from 2 to 4 inches long and from 1 to 2 inches
wide.

Hones for flesh-cutting instruments must be of the
coarser variety than those used by barbers, but not as
coarse as those used to sharpen most edged tools, this
making them difficult to select.

NAH. NIPPEKS.
The Nail Nipper should be strong and with a spiral
spring. They are for cutting heavy nails and almost
indispensable.

CHISEL KNIFE.

This is a very convenient instrument for fine work
and should not be used on heavy callouses or nails. One
end has a sharp cutting edge with the other blunt and
rounded for work on soft corns.

150

CHIROPODY MANUAL.

TWEEZERS.
Tweezers are important in lifting small particles of
cuticle as it is being removed, also for handling small
bits of medicated cotton.

SHEARS.

The shears must be made of solid steel and of the beat
grade, as they are very delicately constructed, and for
the work required of them would be useless in t^o
cheaper grades.

SCAPULA.

This is an instrument that must be selected with care.
The metal should be of the highest grade of steel that
will not be affected by acids. The handle should be of
material that can be placed in boiling water without^
being affected.

CHIROPODY MANUAL. 151

OPERATING KNIFE.

The most useful instrument is the operating knife,
which can be used for nearly every purpose.

The scapula is a longer blade, with single edge and
is intended for stronger work or heavier callouses. It
is also useful in scraping nails or splitting ingrown
nails. The shears should be of strong, heavy construc-
tion, very short and with bent blades, similar to the
manicuring shear, except that it should be much
stronger. They are intended for trimming the nails,
cutting padding, chamois, etc. They are also used for
trimming cuticle in pedicuring and removing particles
of callouses and dead cuticle.

Instruments can be sterilized by dipping in a mild
solution of carbolic acid. Solution should be about
10 per cent. In addition to this, they should be dipped
in boiling water after a bad operation. They may also
be passed quickly through a gas flame, but care should
be taken that they are not left long enough to heat suf-
ficiently to spoil the temper.

The diseases of the feet that we will herein describe
are hard corns, soft corns, bunions, ingrowing toe nails,
callouses, excessive perspiration.

HARD CORNS.

First soak the feet from five to ten minutes in a foot
tub of water as hot as bearable, which is intended to
soften the corn and remove inflammation. Place your-

152

CHIROPODY MANUAL.

self on the stool in front of your subject. Take the
foot from the tub and wipe thoroughly. Hold the toe
between the first finger and thumb of the left hand
and the knife with the right hand, and remove thin
layers of the callouses by cutting towards you and be-
ginning in the center. Trim the flesh with the knife

HARD CORNS.

until it feels soft and pliable, being very cautious nSt
to cut deep enough to draw blood. Leave the outer

CHIROPODY MANUAL. 153

surface smooth. When all callous has been removed,
apply vaseline or mutton tallow prepared with a small
preparation of sweet oil. Apply by rubbing well into
the corn with a circular movement, or from the nail
back. After all substance has been absorbed, you are
ready for padding. Prepare your padding by first tak-
ing a very thin piece of cotton, laid perfectly smooth
over the afflicted part and held in place by a very little
collodion at the edges. Prepare a chamois pad by cut-
ting a small piece off of your chamois skin, just large
enough to cover the corn and cotton. Cut it round
and then fold double and cut a small piece out of the
center. When unfolded it will be perfectly round and
you should be careful not to get it too large or too
small to fit the case. In some cases, two thicknesses
will be necessary. This is to be held in place by a
narrow adhesive strip fastened both above and below.

SOFT CORNS.

In this treatment^ soak the feet the same as with the
hard corn and wipe as before. Soft corns always appear
between the toes, and usually caused from moisture
either from perspiration or not sufficiently drying be-
tween the toes after bathing the feet.

They come in the form of a blister and are covered
with a white or yellow skin, which must be removed
with the knife as shown in cut. Spread the toes apart

(54

GHIROPODY MANUAL.

SOFT CORNS.

with the finger and thumb and remove the top layer by
working the knife under the cuticle and removing small
pieces at a time, using the shears to detach the cuticle
as it is loosened or in many cases, tweezers are neces-
sary. Great care must be used not to cut too deep
and draw the blood, as, in the former cases, here lies
the danger of blood poison. Use Ointment No. 2, as ex-

CHIROPODY MANUAL. 155

plained in the following pages, which is principally
composed of vaseline and oxide of zinc. A sufficient
amount of this to soften the cuticle should be left be-
tween the toes. Prepare a small piece of cotton to put
between the toes by taking it between the finger and
thumb and pulling it smooth and thin so that it will
not roll into a hard lump and cause irritation. Treat-
ment should be given once a week, at least, and in bad
cases, every third day until relieved.

BUNIONS.

Bunions usually appear on the second joint of the
big toe or at the base of the little toe, usually the
former. Soak, the same as in the former case, and
trim with the scapula, if callous appears. Remove all
signs of such. Treat with a solution of equal portions
of Iodine and Belladonna. Apply w'ith camel's hair
brush. If any inflammation, apply a softening solution,
the same as used for soft corns.

Prepare your padding the same as in the ease of hard
corns, oftentimes using two and fcliree thicknesses of
chamois in bad cases. Prepare cotton in the same form
as chamois as shown in cut.

The usual cause of bunions is wearing shoes that
are too narrow and this cause must be removed before
you can effect a cure. It may be caused also by wear-
ing shoes that are too short and the constant jar ot

156

CHIROPODY MANUAL.

PADDING.

walking injures the joint. In severe cases, where pus
appears, it should be poulticed with flaxseed or bread
and milk until all inflammation is removed. After
being poulticed a sufficient length of time to bring
the pus to the surface, usually a few days, remove
the poultice and extract the pus>, Treat with your

CHIROPODY MANUAL.

157

antiseptic solution and pad as described. The idea of
padding around the bunion is to remove the pressure of
the shoe at the immediate point afflicted.

INGROWN TOE NAILS.

This affliction is usually limited to the great toe, al-
though sometimes it affects the small ones. The first
treatment is to raise the side or corner that is causing

INGROWN TOE NAILS.

158 CHIROPODY MANUAL.

the irritation by lifting it as much as possible with
the orange stick, the same as used for manicuring pur-
poses, and gently work cotton under the edge. Work
as much cotton underneath the nail as it will allow
without causing pain and thoroughly antisept the af-
flicted part by bathing well with a mild solution of car-
bolic acid or peroxide. Remove the cotton and put in
fresh, dry cotton in its place. Never trim the edge of
the nail that is growing in, as it causes it to continue
to grow in that direction. Cut your nail straight
across the end and notch V shape in the center as
deep as the cuticle will allow; also scrape the top of
the nail from the notch to the base of the nail, allow-
ing the nail to contract or grow to the center in place
of the side. In severe cases, it may be found neces-
sary to split the nail near the afflicted edge as far
back as the inflammation appears. In case pus appears,
poultice the same as the bunion and remove all in-
flammation before treating further. In case of pus
always treat well with the antiseptics before trimming
and treating the nail.

CALLOUSES.

Callouses, except as spoken of in connection with
corns and bunions, appear on the bottom of the foot and
form a thick fibre that must be removed before at-
tempting to effect a cure. Remove the callous with the

CHIROPODY MANUAL.

150

scapula a little at a time, being careful not to cut tuo
deep. Remove all signs of dead cuticle and trim until
the pink surface appears. The blade of the knife
should be held as flat as possible to avoid cutting too
deep.

CALLOUSES.

Use antiseptic and softening salve, the same as used
for hard corns and pad the same as for bunions. Great
care must be used in fastening padding, by using more

160 CHIROPODY MANUAL.

adhesive strip across the bottom and around on each
side of the foot. Padding is more liable to be dis-
turbed on the bottom of the foot than on bunions, and
sufficient adhesive must be used to keep it in place.

CHILBLAINS.

Chilblains and frost bites of long standing can be
entirely eradicated by constant bathing in witch hazel
or a solution as given in the following pages.

Fresh frost bites or open sores caused from chil-
blains should be treated first with antiseptics and later
with the solutions, applied frequently.

ARTICLES USED IN CHIROPODY.

Absorbent Cotton, Chamois, Carbolic Acid,

Iodine, Oxide of Zinc, Monsell's Solution,

Colodion, Vaseline, Sub-Sulphate of

Peroxide of Hy- Tannin, Iron,

drogen, Adhesive Strip,

RECIPES FOR CHIROPODY.

For Perspiring Feet.
i oz. Tannin in one quart of water. Apply with
sponge.

For Soft Corns.
Vaseline and Oxide of Zinc. Equal parts.

For Ingrown Toe Nails.
Monsell's Solution. Prepared at any drug store.

CHIROPODY MANUAL. 161

For Sterilizing Instruments.
10 per cent, solution of carbolic acid.

Antiseptic,
Peroxide of Hydrogen is used for antiseptic, also to
stop bleeding. Sub-sulphate of iron is also used to stop
bleeding, where bleeding is profuse.
For Bunions.

Iodine, 1 dr.; Belladonna, 1 dr.

For Foot Powder.
Flower of Sulphur, 2 oz.; Boracic Acid, 4 oz. ; Tal-
cum, 6 oz. ; makes a good foot powder and corrects
bad odor.

Corn Salve.

1 oz. Beeswax, 2 oz. Sweet Oil, 12 drops of Turpen-
tine. Heat Oil and Wax, add Turpentine when almost
cold.

For Chilblains.

1 pt. Vinegar, 1 pt. Alcohol, 1 oz. Muriate of Am-
monia.

162 CHIROPODY MANUAL.

POULTICE FOR REMOVING INFLAMMATION.

Use a small sack, partly filled with hops, boiled a
short time in hot water. Apply to affected part for re-
movincr inflammation.

FLAX SEED POULTICE.

Sufficient amount of linseed meal boiled in water to
thicken; stir well while boiling. Put in cloth and apply
to affected part as hot as possible.

LOTION FOR ULCERS AND CHILBLAINS.

Spirits of rosemary 1 dr.

Laudanum 1 dr.

Distilled lead water 1 oz.

Applv with bandages.

OINTMENT FOR ULCERS.

Almond oil 1 dr.

Boracic acid 1 dr.

White wax 1 dr.

Vaseline 1 oz.

Mix and apply.

THE MOLER BARBER SIPPLY tlOlSE

39 PECK CO URT

Everything in tools, cutlery
and cosmetics at

CUT RATES

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AGENTS FOR THE
BEST. MASSAGE
VIBRATOR MADE.

Write for free catalogue.

39 PECK COURT

CHICAGO, ILLINOIS

JAN 27 1996

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